Calling All Regionalvores

Although the most-amusing bit I’ve run across in recent days deals with grass-fed-beef hot dogs and Ebola-infected spider monkeys running the back of the house (perch Anthony Bourdain and Alice Waters side-by-side on a stage and just wait for the lovely fireworks…), the most-poignant was the line of thought beginning with a recent bit in The New York Times on global companies (perhaps) commodifying the “go local” phenomenon and ending (for now…) with an NRA panel discussion on “glocalization” led by RCA President Harry Crane and featuring Robert Danhi (educator, chef, recent Beard Award nominee, RCA Board member), Tom Miner (principal of Technomic), Shannon Johnson (head of menu development at Applebee’s) and Susan Goss (chef-owner of Chicago’s West Town Tavern).

I’ve long pushed for the regionalization of food—and long before the word “locavore” entered common parlance. This concept is more about distinct regions of the country vs. the 15 or 150 miles (depending on however you define “local”) surrounding your home. Let’s call those who celebrate regional food connections “regionalvores,” and I’m proud to espouse all tenets of this new and unreservedly inclusive club (club charter and bylaws to follow in future).

I see great benefit in cultivating more of a regional identity in our food that encompasses not only a closer relationship between the farmers of the region and particular fruits of the area (whether sea, land or sky), but also historically ingrained culinary traditions, landmarks still visible on the regional foodscape that distinguish it from the rest of the country. Food steeped in these commingled traditions make great candidates for retail and menu development and serve to differentiate in a sea of ever-whitewashing sameness. And if such notions can capitalize on some level of “go local” buzz, all the better. We just need to make sure the stock of that locavore stew isn’t overly diluted in the pursuit of almighty marketing taglines and broadcast messages.