Doug's Domain
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Douglas J. Peckenpaugh is community director of content and culinary editor of Food Product Design. His career has centered on food and agricultural publishing, working as a writer, editor and publisher of magazines, books and websites. He also worked as a cook and restaurant manager while earning his B.A. in Professional and Creative Writing from Purdue University. |
Harissa on the Brain
Maybe it’s because I just finished working on a big “emerging Mediterranean culinary trends” piece. And maybe it’s just that I’m a big chile freak. Or perhaps it’s my never-ending penchant for trying to subtly accent foods through judicious use of sauce. There’s also that not-so-subtle nod to the fact that North African culinary trends are eagerly poised to hit our shores.
Regardless, the end result is my current fascination with harissa. The sauce—not unlike a Latin sofrito or an Indian sambal—can vary considerably, but a couple of mainstays in its creation are pungent chiles, garlic, aromatic spices like coriander and cumin, and some caraway seeds, and maybe a bit of tomato. Toast those spices and fire-roast the chiles and tomatoes, and you’ve got yourself some depth of flavor to write home about.
Although it’s a common accent for couscous in North African cities like Marrakesh (and in fine dining across the country—often a clear indication of things to come—including Chicago), in the West we’re free to experiment with wider applications (as noted in a still-recent L.A. Times piece written by a newly smitten harissa admirer). I see sandwich spreads, salad dressings, accents on kebab-influenced pizzas and even creations like the “harissa jam,” adding flavor to mushroom-cap “sliders,” cited in the aforementioned big “emerging Mediterranean culinary trends” piece soon coming to an issue of CULINOLOGY® near you.
Stay tuned.
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