Revisiting Healthy Latino Foods

Mole, from the Nahuatl word moli, meaning “concoction,” describes a family of sauces that come from various regions of Mexico. Sometimes thick and dark, they can be also be thin and range in color from black to yellow. These smooth, aromatic sauces are labor-intensive concoctions that can contain over 30 ingredients, including 10 different varieties of chiles, almonds, peanuts, fried bread, plantains, sugar, chocolate, cinnamon, cloves—a host of healthy ingredients. Named for the mountain city of Puebla, Mexico, mole poblano is the most-famous member of the family, and is the key ingredient in what is often considered the national dish of Mexico—mole poblano de guajalote (Puebla-style turkey mole).

Latinos have also traditionally made use of a wide variety of fruits (like plantain, pineapple, passion fruit, guava, strawberry, papaya, jackfruit and guarana), root vegetables (like cassava) and chiles (like pasilla, cascabel, poblano and habenero, in addition to the more-common jalapeño). In traditional diets, pumpkins, squash, zucchini and similar plants were common food sources—and not just the fruits of the plant. Stems were used for soup, called sopa de guias; the flowers go into soups, stews and quesadillas; and the fruits were boiled. Sun-dried pumpkin seeds were toasted and salted and provided another source of high-quality protein.

No school like the old school

Groups such as the Latino Nutrition Coalition are working to reintroduce elements of the traditional Latino diet. Similar in nature to the Mediterranean diet, traditional Latino diets were rich in fruits, vegetables, tubers, beans and nuts. Latino traditions commonly utilize oils from squash, peanuts and avocados, and seeds such as pumpkin and sesame. The Latin American Diet Pyramid (oldwayspt.org/latin_pyramid.html) provides a guideline for healthy eating habits geared to the Latino community, emphasizing the components of the more-healthful traditional diet.

Amaranth, for example, is a grain that was a staple of the Aztec culture. The small kernels yield a bright, peppery flavor and resemble brown caviar when cooked. Amaranth may also be “popped” like corn. With no gluten, it must be mixed with wheat—or gluten added—to make raised breads. Amaranth is a healthy addition, with a high level of protein (16%), including lysine—an essential amino acid absent, or present in miniscule amounts, in many common grains.

Cassava (Manihot esculenta), also referred to as yuca and manioc, is another traditional Latino food, often playing the same role as potatoes in North American fare. The long, tapered roots are peeled and submersed in water to prevent darkening prior to cooking. Low in protein (about 1%) and high in starch (25% to 30%), cassava does provide calcium (50 mg per 100 grams) and vitamin C (25 mg per 100 grams). Cassava can also contribute high levels of cyanide if the roots are not handled properly. Cyanogenic glucosides in the plant generate hydrogen cyanide when the plant’s tissues are damaged. By damaging the tissues, processors can allow the hazardous compounds to be liberated prior to processing. Additionally, farmers can cultivate “sweet” or “low-cyanide” versions of the plant. Yuca is used in countless applications, served boiled or made into dough, even fermented into alcoholic beverages. Fried yuca slices have even been served up as a high-fiber, reduced-fat (approximately 40% less) alternative to potato chips.

Sharing the “at every meal” base of the Latin American Diet Pyramid are fruits like plantains. Although related to the banana, these large fruits are not edible without cooking. Green plantains are starchy with a mealy texture, but offer another alternative to potato chips, this time providing vitamins A and C and potassium. As the fruit ripens, the color becomes dark—almost black—and starch is converted to sugar, yielding a sweet flavor when sautéed in butter or oil. They can be puréed or mashed and served as a side dish sprinkled with salt, garlic and/or lime juice, or they can be added to items such as tamales or chiles rellenos, or served as a dessert topped with sugar, cinnamon and butter.

Other fruits traditionally enjoyed by Latinos include pineapple, passion fruit, guava, strawberry, papaya, jackfruit and guarana. These fruits are used to create jams and frozen desserts, either fresh or in the form of pastes called ates or cajetas. Citrus fruits, such as lime, lemon and orange, are also used as flavorings in marinades and salsas.

Bueno beverages

The popularity of fruits opens the way for increased beverage applications targeted to the Latino consumer. A 2006 survey by Information Resources, Inc., Chicago, showed refrigerated juices and beverages, bottled waters, and beer and ale products are growing significantly faster among Hispanics than the general population. Increased purchase rates were also observed for carbonated soft drinks, aseptic juices and sports drinks. In another survey, ACNielsen, New York, found that berries, lemon, lime, orange and berry-lime combinations were preferred among Hispanics. Traditional flavors such as guava, pineapple, hibiscus and tamarind were also tapped as popular choices.

In addition to exotic taste, beverages made with these fruits must have the appropriate mouthfeel. “A genuine tamarind beverage has a texture that contains pulp and particulates,” says Apps. “While often considered unacceptable by many informal sensory participants, these characteristics are very acceptable for the Hispanic target audience. The texture assures consumers that the product is natural and made with authentic ingredients, not just colored or flavored water.” Traditionally the pulp is mixed with water or infused to create sweetened beverages such as fresco de tamarindo. Tamarind pulp contains many healthy elements, including calcium, iron, phosphorous, thiamin, riboflavin, niacin and dietary fiber. Folk medicine considers tamarind to be a digestive aid, among other uses.