Thai Curries, United Flavors

A notable exception to this process is jungle curry. With its origins in the northern regions of Thailand, where the mountainous, temperate climate isn’t conducive to growing coconut palms, this curry traditionally doesn’t contain coconut milk. Because it doesn’t carry the capsaicin in a uniform manner, like curries with coconut milk, the heat is experienced in bursts rather than constant and consistent waves.

Understanding authentic flavors

Throughout the creation of Robert’s new book, “Southeast Asian Flavors,” our R&D team systematically dissected, deconstructed and reconstructed Thai curry powders and pastes, developing recipes to create them from scratch. The results and flavor profiles we were able to achieve were astonishing and matched only by the absurd amount of time, energy and elbow grease required to accomplish this task.

In a restaurant or manufactured application, however, it is impossible to make a profit on such a labor-intensive product. Thankfully, an easy solution comes in the form of prefabricated, ready-to-use curry powders and pastes. There are many different types and brands, and it is important to research each individually before deciding on the right one. We suggest that, before resorting to a prefabricated product, R&D teams make the curry paste and/or powder from scratch first, to obtain some perspective on how it should taste. Then, if none of the ready-to-use products are to your liking, you will be able to identify the missing or overbearing flavor and compensate for this by fortifying the premade paste or powder with fresh ingredients. Alternately, you could work with a supplier to create a formula to match an existing curry product.

Currying domestic favor

America’s love affair with Thai food in general, and specifically curry, produces some interesting opportunities for the retail sector, foodservice operators and ingredient suppliers in this country. The American public is no stranger to the frozen-foods aisle, and retail Asian stir-fry kits have been a staple across the country for some time now.

This same application could be easily translated to a frozen Thai curry kit. The kits could be packaged with a packet or bowl of raw, microwavable Jasmine rice, a portion of coconut milk and a packet of Thai curry paste. Shelf-stable kits would also work. Packaging the majority of the spicy ingredients separately and printing graduated lines on the package showing the authentic level of heat and other recommended levels could let consumers decide how spicy to make the dish. Each element of the kit provides opportunities for cross branding with other companies.

The process of cracking the coconut milk and aromatic roasting of curry paste will inspire and entice the home cook while sending the rest of the family running to the table. For those consumers looking for heat-‘n’-eat options, fully prepared Thai curry meals are becoming more available.

Thai curry paste can also be used in nontraditional ways. For example, these flavor-packed pastes could accent salad dressings, such as a red curry lime vinaigrette. Red curry paste blended with a dairy base and seasoned with coconut milk, either powdered or liquid, makes an awesome veggie dip. Blended with some liquid, curry paste increases the overall flavor intensity of a marinade for grilled proteins. Let the reins go and begin to incorporate Thai curry paste into your R&D cycle.

Despite the prevalence of curry pastes in Thailand, various curry powders can be used as a finishing topical seasoning to dishes that typically are seasoned with only salt and pepper. At the 2008 Research Chefs Association annual convention in Seattle, we dined at Flying Fish, a local Seattle restaurant with a focus on fresh, local seafood that was inspired by chef-owner Christine Keff’s travels in Thailand.

The curry-spiced calamari appetizer was recommended and confidently referred to as “the best in town.” Just one bite, and it was clear that the confidence in this dish was well founded. But the curry powder was not the only reason this dish was so successful; the calamari was also perfectly cooked and unbelievably fresh.

The fried category seems to be ripe with similar opportunities: onion rings, french fries, fried oysters, fish and chips, and even cheese sticks take on a whole new persona when dusted with a little bit of these pungent powders.

Ancient origins, authentic adaptations and inspired renditions all have their place in the marketplace. Some niche markets are looking for the real flavors of Thailand, while other consumers are craving adaptations that recall the memories of Thailand with a tamer spice composition. Sometimes authenticity is thrown out the proverbial window and chefs want to simply weave Thai curry pastes into new products as they design the next hot item on the menu or retail line.

Fortunately, this is all possible with diligent sourcing, dynamic R&D teams and good manufacturing processes. Look to the past, work in the present and innovate for the future to delight your customers as you deliver the flavors of Thailand to their palates.

Ingredient Substitutions

Depending on the location of the operation and the quantity needed, some ingredients for Thai curries can be tricky to find. However, don’t be easily deterred; many acceptable substitutions still result in authentic flavors. Some of the ingredients common to Thai curries but rare to these parts are listed below, along with an acceptable substitution.

Traditional Ingredient          Substitution

Kaffir-lime zest                   Kaffir-lime leaves

Dried long chiles                  Dried japone or arbol chiles

Fresh krachai                      Pickled krachai

Cilantro root                       Cilantro stems

Often, these ingredients are hard to find only because there is little demand for them. Asking your suppliers for some of these exotic ingredients might be all it takes.

For example, cilantro is prevalent and easily acquired throughout the United States, and, of course, to grow and survive, all cilantro plants must have a root—the part we need for Thai curries. The roots are usually left to amend the soil in the field, because farmers do not know that there is a market for the sweet root that tastes like a cilantro-flavored parsnip.

While speaking at the Produce Solutions Conference in April 2008, Robert showcased numerous examples of how culinarians are seeking these ingredients. Within one week, we had samples in the test kitchen of cilantro root and another company inquiring about specification requirements.

Robert Danhi, C.C.E., C.H.E., C.E.C., C.C.P., is a leading authority on the cuisines of Asia. His book “Southeast Asian Flavors: Adventures in Learning to Cook the Foods of Thailand, Vietnam, Malaysia & Singapore,” will be available Oct. 2008. After 23 years in the food business, he now leads Chef Danhi & Co., El Segundo, CA, which consults with food manufacturers, restaurant chains, educational organizations and professional associations. For more information, visit chefdanhi.com or southeastasianflavors.com. Danhi, a member of the Research Chefs Association, can be reached at robert@chefdanhi.com.

Ari Slatkin is the culinary support guru (a.k.a., sous-chef) for Chef Danhi & Co., and holds degrees in Anthropology, Culinary Arts, and Hospitality Restaurant Management. His is an alumnus of the University of Colorado and all three campuses of the New England Culinary Institute, and now resides in Redondo Beach, CA.