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Pouring on Specialty Oil Ideas

Tamie Cook, Contributing Editor
08/27/2008

They say variety is the spice of life. And, if that’s the case, the product and menu developer’s pantry can be a veritable smorgasbord of piquancy. Literally, we have the world at the end of our whisk, and this has never been truer than when it comes to reaching for oils.

In days past, choices were largely limited to vegetable, peanut, soybean, the occasional variety of olive oil and, on a good day, extra virgin olive oil. No longer confined to these basics, myriad choices now address today’s ingredient requirements for health, variety, taste and versatility. Whether it’s for a new dish on the menu or the next big product line, look at the choices, learn about their many uses and try some new oil on your palette.

Most fruit, nut and seed oils generally undergo comparatively little processing. Many are mechanically, or “expeller,” extracted and are unrefined, so no solvent was used to extract the oil, and no bleach or deodorizing agent was used to refine it. Thus, the oil retains its full, natural flavor, aroma and color, and many of its naturally occurring nutrients. This translates into a product that not only adds flavor to a dish, but also adds value to a menu or product.

Shedding new light on an old friend

When it comes to olive oil, everything old is new again. The olive tree, a native of Asia Minor, has been around for more than 6,000 years. It is believed to have been first cultivated in Greece for oil production. Production spread relatively quickly to other parts of the world, most importantly Italy and Spain, and more recently California. By the time it reaches the end user, the oil’s quality and flavor have been influenced by the olive variety, climate, soil conditions and extraction process.

Olive oils are graded by production method, acidity and flavor. The International Olive Oil Council (IOOC), Madrid, Spain, sets quality standards that most olive-oil-producing countries use.

“Extra virgin” olive oil is derived from cold pressing of olives without any refining. It has a distinctive aroma and intense, fruity flavor, with an extremely low acidity (less than 0.8%). It’s best used fresh in salad dressings, or as a condiment or dip. Don’t waste this elixir on anything but the highest-quality dishes where nothing competes, covers it up or interferes with its unique flavor.

“Virgin” olive oil is also derived solely from the pressing of olives and doesn’t undergo refining. With an acidity level of less than 2%, it has a mild aroma and a light, fruity flavor that varies in intensity. Add it to hummus or other creamy dips when you want to add a luscious, fruity flavor to an already delicious product. Substitute virgin olive oil for some of the fat in a vanilla ice cream for an herbaceous, fresh, fruity flavor.

Plain “olive oil,” usually described as “pure” or “100% pure,” blends refined olive oil and extra virgin or virgin olive oil. Because the refined oil is neutral in flavor, it must be blended with extra virgin or virgin olive oil to enhance its flavor. This olive oil has an acidity level of less than 1% and is excellent for light sautéing and baking.

“Olive pomace oil” is a blend of refined olive pomace, the crushed olive material that remains after pressing, and virgin olive oil. The pomace oil is extracted with solvents. Olive pomace oil is a good choice for a sauté or deep frying due to its mild flavor and higher smoke point.

In Italy, one dish in particular is synonymous with olive oil: bruschetta. Since the 15th century, Italians have been serving this appetizer of crusty, toasted bread, garlic and only the very best olive oil. In France, tapenade, a Provençal specialty, is prepared with only the best olives and olive oil. Grecian bakers are responsible for introducing the world to olive oil through their baked goods. Traditional breads, cakes and cookies, such as melomakarona, a traditional Greek Christmas cookie, have been prepared for centuries using olive oil. And in Spain, no gazpacho is complete without the addition of a good-quality olive oil.

A fruit of another color

A relative newcomer to the specialty-oil arena, avocado oil, has surged onto the culinary scene in recent years. With its high levels of monounsaturated fats and vitamin E, its unbelievably high smoke point and great taste, it makes you wonder why it took so long.

The earliest record of the existence of avocado, a native of Mexico, Central America and South America, was found at an archaeological dig in Peru—avocado seeds were buried with a mummy dating back to the 8th century B.C. Florida saw the first U.S. planting of avocado trees in the 1830s. Today, California gives us almost 80% of all of the fruit grown in the United States.


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