By Cindy Hazen, Contributing Editor
Ice cream punctuates a day with pleasure. Just as the comma gives meaning to a well-crafted sentence, inclusions accent this creamy dessert with crunch, color and texture, transforming it from a simple delight to pure manna.
Pursuit of chocolate
If chocolate is the food of the gods, cocoa-based inclusions are bound to glorify simple ice creams. Yet, there’s more to the process than stirring in chips.
The size of the chocolate piece and the melt point should be considered to maximize flavor delivery. Typically, chocolate-based inclusions are chocolate-flavored confectionery products formulated to have a lower melt point than real chocolate. “Manufacturers will generally use a chocolate-flavored liquid, flake or chip product to create chocolate-flavored chips in ice cream," says Tom Jablonowski, product service and development manager, ADM Cocoa, Milwaukee. “Chocolate-flavored chips are formulated with a lower-melting fat, like coconut oil, as a carrier for the chocolate flavors."
Compound coating-based inclusions can have their melting point and flavor profile dialed in for optimal functionality. “For instance, a compound coating chocolate flake can be formulated to melt at 80° F versus a standard chocolate flake that has a set melt point around 88° F," says Dennis Reid, vice president marketing & business development, Sensory Effects Flavor Systems, Bridgeton, MO. “This provides superior melt properties and better flavor release in frozen dessert products. These also offer more formula and processing tolerance, as well as economic advantages."
Sometimes, real chocolate chips can be used, but they should be small in size. “Generally, about 10,000 count per pound would be the recommended size of the chip for this type of an application," says Jablonowski. “The small size is important because it helps the chocolate to melt quickly when consumed in a frozen ice cream treat. Very small chunks instead of chips can also be used. Due to the small size of the inclusions, a strong chocolate flavor is desirable in order to provide a flavor impact."
Syrups and variegates (swirls) are also commonly used to create a chocolate "wow" factor. “The syrups and variegates are usually made with a very low melt point (semi-liquid at room temperature) and can be added into the ice cream with a fruit feeder. These types of inclusions are usually formulated with minimal ingredients, utilizing cocoa, sugar, fat, and flavor for maximum visual impact," Jablonowski says.
Dark chocolate is the most common color of chips, flakes or syrup variegates, because “the appearance of dark chocolate provides a visible contrast to the typical white or even chocolate ice cream," Jablonowski says. “Other characteristics relate to flavor impact and appearance. For example, does the developer require a milder chocolate flavor with natural cocoa, or is an alkalized cocoa powder acceptable, which provides a darker appearance and fudgelike flavor?"
Jablonowski says natural products are still popular. “In addition, we see a trend toward high cacao content and a minimal number of ingredients. A dark-chocolate flavor profile is the most common request," he says. However, cost management is still a big piece of the development process.
Bakery-based inclusions
