By Donna Berry, Contributing Editor
Recommendations in the 2010 Dietary Guidelines for Americans infer that we as a nation should stop grilling burgers, barbecuing ribs and frying up chicken wings, as it would be best if half of our dinner plate was filled with fruits and veggies. And even though The Food Channel said in Nov. 2010 that many diners are pushing protein to the side and elevating the side dish (see “Top 10 Side Dish Trends in 2010"), many of those side dishes—and even dessert—contain nuances of meat. We are a meat-loving nation and crave the bold, savory, earthy flavors associated with animal protein and its various cooking styles.
“Consumers are reducing meat intake, but they still want the meat flavor," says Anton Dodel, research chef, Advanced Food Systems, Somerset, NJ.
Mark Rainey, savory segment director, Givaudan, Cincinnati, says: “Let’s face it, we’re a meat society. Meat and meat flavors deliver satiety. Anything less and we feel slighted."
European chefs rarely cook with water alone, notes Rainey. “They often use stock to build in aroma, body and flavor into their signature menu dishes," says Rainey. “Just think about how much better mashed potatoes taste when made with chicken stock vs. boiled water."
Rainey suggests that meat flavors are influenced by “retrospective" and “back to basics" trends, that it’s “all about simplicity, nostalgia, regionalism, authenticity and provenance. This is evidenced by the explosion of local meat markets, neighborhood butcher shops and charcuterie in fine dining. An equally interesting and related trend is that of artisanal and premium meats. Examples include old-world style sausages, regional hot dogs and fermented meats that use ingredients from head-to-hoof." He notes that his company’s scientists “understand how these different cuts of meat, along with cooking techniques, influence flavor. We have been able to capture these flavors and reproduce them so that food manufacturers can offer products with the same authentic, butcher-shop, artisan-inspired tastes."
Not only are the many nuances of meat and poultry influencing the development of packaged, ready-to-eat and frozen entrées, they are also impacting nonprotein applications ranging from vegetarian dishes to sweet treats.
The flexitarian
Rob Kerfin, product line manager, Red Arrow Products Company LLC, Manitowoc, WI, sees an increasing number of flexitarians. “People want the benefits of the vegetarian diet, but don’t want to give up the flavors and the experience of meat," he says. “Meat analogues should taste like something, and as a way to attract a larger following, why not have meat analogues taste like meat?"
Tammi Higgins, senior manager-marketing, Kalsec Inc., Kalamazoo, MI, says: “You not only need meat flavors to deliver a meat-like profile in an analogue system, you also need the savory notes from herbs and spices that are typically associated with meat for a full-flavor experience. Some typical seasoning blends are barbecue, Buffalo and satay."
Many flavor companies offer vegetarian meat flavors that mimic the taste of various animal proteins and their different preparation and cooking styles. Adding a vegetarian roast beef flavor to a veggie burger produces a product “that even meat eaters salivate over," says Shawn Kohlmeier, marketing analyst, Red Arrow Products Company. “This approach of adding meat flavors carries over into other meat products, such as hot dogs, hamburgers, fajitas and many others, where you can elevate the eating experience with the flavor of a higher-end cut of meat. Authentic meat flavors in meat-based applications can change the entire dynamic of the dish or product."
And this goes for non-meat products, as well. It makes sense to take the meat flavors consumers love and incorporate them into snacks, desserts and meat-analogue products, notes Kohlmeier. “Meat flavors are penetrating food categories that they have never been in before," he says. “It is that succulent, savory flavor that consumers crave in the original dish that makes nontraditional flavoring so intriguing. For instance, bacon and hot wings are two savory foods that elicit excitement from consumers."
Fly away with bacon
Just last month, family-style chain Denny’s added a Maple Bacon Sundae to its menu, and dairy manufacturer HP Hood rolled out Heluva Good! Buffalo Wing Dip.
The sundae is part of Denny’s “Baconalia! A Celebration of Bacon" campaign. “Denny’s continually strives to meet the wants and needs of its customers, and with over 67% of Americans describing bacon as flavorful and satisfying, we’re sure the Baconalia! menu will please all those crackling cravings," says John Dillon, vice president of marketing and product development, Denny’s Corporation, Spartanburg, SC.
Dolf De Rovira, president, Flavor Dynamics Inc., South Plainfield, NJ, agrees that Denny’s is on target with its menu innovations. “Bacon seems to be the popular buzz word in nonprotein applications," he says. “Bacon chocolate and maple bacon have found their way into desserts, chocolates and other confections."
Understanding meat flavors
“Formulators must identify their objectives in using meat flavors," says Dodel. “Is it to add meat flavor, to enhance other flavors, to round out flavors or to mask undesirable flavors?"
Formulators can use meat flavors in meat and meat analogues “to enhance flavor intensity, bring back authenticity and add flavor characteristics, all which often are lost in processing," says Mary Maier, senior flavorist, Givaudan. “Signature flavors and cooking cues, such as grilled notes or fried notes, may be added to meats that are not necessarily going through those cooking processes.
