By Mark Crowell, CRC, Contributing Editor
What do sauerbraten, lamb-apricot tagine and tart de brymlent—a 14th-century English haddock pie with figs, raisins, apples, pears and pitted damson plums—have in common? While their origins are separated by hundreds of years and thousands of miles, each dish is an example of a venerable culinary tradition: the use of fruit in savory recipes. Lest you think this is all ancient history, the 2010 McCormick Flavor Forecast predicts two hot flavor combinations this year will feature sweet‐savory combinations of Thai basil and watermelon, and roasted ginger and rhubarb.
Why has the use of sweet fruits in savory dishes found its way into so many cuisines over the centuries? A combination of reasons is likely. Historically, fruit provided a sweetener at a time when sugar was a luxury item. Fruits were easily dried and, thus, were easy to preserve and transport. Importantly, uncommon fresh fruits were considered a status symbol and their use on royal tables guaranteed demand and recognition among royals and court chefs.
Like their predecessors, today’s product and menu developers use sweet ingredients like fruit in savory dishes to add interesting textures, colors and flavors. In addition, we now recognize the health benefits fruit brings to our diet, including key vitamins, minerals, fiber and antioxidants. Also, traditionally sweet desserts have seen culinary tempering with savory ingredients, resulting in creations that are less sweet and wholly original.
Culinary instructors the world over teach students traditional dishes demonstrating the interplay between sweet, sour and savory. It is a combination every culinary student must understand as part of educating their palate. We are always seeking a more in‐depth understanding of cuisine, and here we’ll be looking at the historical basis for using fruit in savory dishes and exploring the sensory and culinary underpinnings of balancing sweet, sour and savory. Some of what we discover may surprise and, hopefully, inspire you to create new takes on this ancient culinary tradition yourself.
Long ago and far away
Anglo‐Norman cookbooks from more than 1,000 years ago are full of recipes for sweet and savory custards, potages, sauces and tarts with strawberries, cherries, apples and plums. An early form of quiche, tart de Bry—with eggs, cheese (usually Brie), ginger and saffron—can be found in a 14th-century recipe collection.
