The Dirt on Garlic

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By Justin Guibert, Contributing Editor

For centuries, garlic (Allium sativum) has been prized by cultures around the world for its benefits as a healthy and flavorful ingredient. Legend has it that the ancient Egyptians wore bulbs of garlic around their necks to give them strength as they constructed the pyramids, and Roman soldiers consumed raw cloves before going to battle. Today, the world is embracing garlic once again for its culinary and health attributes.

Growing garlic demand

There are two main types, or subspecies, of garlic: hardneck garlic (var. ophioscorodon) and softneck garlic (var. sativum). Hardneck garlic typically has smaller, more-uniform bulbs, while softneck generally has larger bulbs with more cloves of more-variable size. Flavor can vary with garlic type, and the climate where the plants are grown can also influence flavor.

Green garlic is young garlic harvested before the bulb develops, yielding tender leaves with delicate flavor that add a mellow touch of garlic to any recipe. It has been growing in popularity among consumers and chefs, but availability has been limited to farmers markets and specialty produce purveyors during the springtime. The upcoming harvest marks the first time this seasonal delicacy will be available in markets nationwide beyond the spring.

Heirloom seed is a critical factor in the cultivation of garlic because the different seed stocks used around the world lend to unique flavor profiles. Certain varieties compromise flavor for more pounds per acre or better appearance. The exclusive Monviso seed line grown by Christopher Ranch, Gilroy, CA, traces its lineage back to the Piedmont region of Northern Italy. For over 50 years, Ranch farmers have perfected their seed program to maintain the distinct garlic flavor that this variety delivers.

From seed to store

It all starts with a single clove, which is planted as seed in the fall. Over time, the clove germinates, a sprout emerges, and the first signs of a new plant are evident. As the plant matures, the original clove falls off and a new bulb begins to form in its place. By spring, the plant can reach a height of up to 2 feet. In the summer months, the leaves begin to yellow, water is cut off, and the bulbs begin an underground curing process that lasts several weeks. Finally, 9 months after planting, the bulbs are undercut (usually by hand) and laid in rows to further cure in the sun and wind. The final harvesting step is to “hand top” the garlic by cutting the roots and stems and placing in storage bins. From there, they are taken to the packing facility to be processed.

In the packing sheds, the garlic runs through graders, where it is sorted and sized. The best quality bulbs are packed into cases for the retail market. Bulbs with missing cloves or loose skins are collected and taken to the “cracker,” where they are distributed onto belts and passed under rubber rollers that break the bulbs into individual cloves. The cloves are again sorted by size and placed into bins, which sit overnight on heaters to loosen the skins and prepare the cloves for peeling.

Grown in the USA

Garlic is grown globally and has become a critical flavor component for a variety of international cuisines. The vast majority of U.S. garlic comes from California, and most California garlic production is centralized in Gilroy, CA, affectionately known as “the garlic capital of the world.” However, recently, China has emerged as the world’s leading source, growing two-thirds of the world supply. Even in the United States, where California-grown garlic is available year-round, Chinese garlic amounts to well over half of the domestic supply. The International Trade Commission reports that Chinese garlic exports into the U.S. in 2009 alone totaled 145 million pounds.

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