By Charlie Baggs
Contributing Editor
Experts believe that the tart cherry came into being in Eastern Europe sometime around 300 B.C., and was subsequently incorporated into the diets of the Greeks, Romans and later historical figures such as Henry VIII. Today, tart cherries are still very much a part of modern diets and menus, and are gaining attention as a superfruit with high antioxidant and anthocyanin levels.
The flavor of tart cherry is balanced by a touch of sweetness and tartness, making it suitable for both savory and sweet applications. Whether in a recipe as a background note, or a main character in a dessert, the texture and bright red color of frozen whole tart cherries, or dark burgundy color of dried cherries, add unique eating and aesthetic qualities to any dish.
When reduced, tart cherry juice concentrate is syrupy and blends well with other flavors. The inherent tart, sweet and bitter tastes balance with other ingredients to make for a solid flavor building block. Functional and flavorful, the cherry ingredient has development merit, though it is critical to balance the flavors for each specific application.
Getting back to BASICS
When formulating with tart cherries, refer to the BASICS™ model, developed by Charlie Baggs Inc., Chicago. This model is a template used to identify the basic flavor components of an ingredient or cooking method and is an acronym for balance, acidity, sweetness, intended flavor and texture, color and saltiness.
Balance is key when developing a recipe with tart cherries. The tart and bitter tastes of the cherry are so prevalent it is imperative to manage them with the appropriate balance of sweetness. This can be done with a variety of ingredients. For example, dehydrated cane sugar, once it is dissolved in liquid,, can balance the tart and bitter components of tart cherries to create a complex taste.
Acidity also has an effect on balance and the ultimate flavor impact. Acidity brightens the taste and makes the mouth salivate. Several acidic ingredients are useful in tart cherry recipes, such as lemon and lime juice for desserts and sweet recipes. Specialty vinegars, like rice-wine, balsamic, apple-cider or malt vinegar, all complement tart cherries’ background taste when used at the correct level. The idea is to allow the tart cherry flavor to come through in the recipe while highlighting the balance of taste to stimulate the palate.
Various sweet ingredients, like pure cane sugar, caramelized sugar, agave nectar, honey and molasses, will help control the impact of any bitter taste and maximize the cherry flavor.
The intended flavor and texture of tart cherries is significant in recipes, as the name “tart cherry” has an attractive ring and can be associated with health benefits when incorporated into a recipe name. Maintaining the tart cherry flavor while complementing the taste and balancing the acidity, sweetness and overall intended flavor is what makes these cherries so pleasing in recipes. The texture of tart cherries can either be homogenous when blended, or offer significant texture as a garnish. The distinctive chewy texture works well in muffins, pies and desserts, while the texture in a savory sauce can add to the sauce’s viscosity.