A few decades ago, the French wine industry revolutionized its marketing in the United States by demystifying the process of wine selection for consumers. By focusing on approachable brands in affordable price ranges, and by educating consumers about what to look for and why, French vintners and U.S. distributors made wine much less intimidating to the public at large. As a result, knowledge of and demand for the wines of France greatly increased, the industry enjoyed steady growth, and countless French wineries have been reaping the financial rewards since.
The cheeses of France, in a sense, are the new wine. Like the wine scene years ago, more and more people are beginning to actively explore the endless varieties and uses of French cheeses—from hors d’oeuvres to dessert plates to cheese boards. In much the same way that French wine selections saturated the American market, artisanal cheeses from France more recently have made incredible headway.
“The beauty of French cheeses, aside from the fact that they're absolutely delicious and can deliver a certain je ne sais quoi to gatherings, is that they’ve been playing an increasingly central role in the culinary landscape here in the U.S.,” according to Max McCalman, cheese expert and author of The Cheese Plate, and Cheese, a Connoisseur’s Guide to the World’s Best. "This is the case whether we’re talking about four-star restaurants, specialty food stores, luxury hotels or intimate dinner parties.”
Today’s economic climate has also helped increase the popularity of French cheeses. The Associated Press recently reported that preparing meals at home is “part of a national trend to eat at home and save money.” Increasingly sophisticated American diners don’t want those home meals to mean they have to forfeit new flavor experiences and combinations.
Fromage: Educating the market
Educating customers, restaurateurs, market cheese departments and culinary specialty stores has played a key role in promoting the varieties and benefits of French cheeses—just as it did in the wine world. It has broadened consumers’ “cheese horizons,” and has given them the confidence to experiment with previously unfamiliar cheese selections and presentations. Making French cheeses of all kinds approachable, while maintaining their exotic appeal, has helped create a new generation of cheese aficionados throughout the United States.
A good example is how, in many U.S. cities, fromage plates, noted as much for their flavor and texture as for their color and packaging varieties, increasingly have become menu staples.
For a growing number of consumers and restaurants, however, French cheeses also are being showcased as the main attraction. While still a novel concept to some, more and more people are embracing the idea that the right mix of fromage, fruits, nuts, and bread offers a satisfying meal in its own right.
Health concerns also have played a direct role in reaching and educating the market. Consider that the growing popularity of French cheese selections in the U.S. has occurred during an increasing recognition of the benefits of the Mediterranean Diet. Based on the dietary traditions of the southern Mediterranean, it includes eating fruits and vegetables, whole grains, nuts, olive oil– and nutrient-rich cheese in moderation every day. The French diet has long been considered grounded in the traditional Mediterranean ways of eating, which includes the enjoyment of cheese, fiber-rich bread, and wine every day. French cheeses, it’s interesting to note from a health perspective, are minimally processed and free of artificial growth hormone/rBST – both of which appeal to an increasingly health-conscious American public.
Many American consumers, obviously, are intrigued by the notion of discovering the endless ways that French cheeses can enhance their daily lives and eating habits, and are willing to be more bold with unfamiliar selections when given a bit of solid (and interesting) background information.
Enter cheesemakers and retailers, who are seizing the opportunity to become a trusted resource for educating consumers about the enormous world of French cheese varieties, related health benefits, and “best practices” when it comes to selections and serving. Their guidance largely has centered on lessening the “intimidation factor” when it comes to French cheeses. Education efforts range from clarifying cheese and region names that may be difficult to pronounce, to showcasing any unusual or unfamiliar origins of cheeses, to explaining the intricacies of selecting French varieties for taste, texture, ideal beverage pairings, and entertaining.
Terroir: Demystifying the World of French Cheeses
The term at the heart of effectively explaining the uniqueness and appeal of French cheeses is terroir— the factors that make cheeses from each French cheesemaking region so unique. It is the soil, the climate, the ancient breeds and cheesemaking traditions that greatly influence the taste and character of every French cheese variety.
Just as in the wine world, consumers have been eager to learn about the differences in each cheese which are created by a given French region’s terroir. By understanding the concept of terroir, consumers have been motivated to try a vast array of fromage in a variety of price ranges, in search of the nutty, fruity, grassy, sharp, or earthy flavors that terroir creates.
Consumers are hungry to feel confident in their choices. This is retailers’ opportunity to step in and offer their assistance and expert knowledge. On this front, once cheeses’ terroir is more solidly understood, it takes just a few simple steps to actually choose and assemble the cheeses: selection, presentation, and accoutrements. Here is a quick guide of the three:
Selection. For peak freshness and flavor, counsel customers to purchase their selections close to when they plan to serve. Encourage them to select complementary flavors and textures, with a nice mix of hard and soft cheeses. Some people also are intrigued by the rinds and unique packaging on many French cheeses, and should be encouraged to consider visual appeal when building the perfect fromage plate.
Encourage diverse offerings, such as Mimolette (a fruity, nutty cheese made from cow’s milk), Tradition Jacquin (a traditional goat’s milk selection), and Roquefort (a spicy, tart blue cheese made from ewe’s milk). Ask what the other components of the meal are, and steer consumers to selections that will complement the other items being served.
Presentation. Cheese should be served at room temperature, and many newcomers to the cheese world will not be aware of this fact. Furthermore, fromage novices will appreciate knowing how many varieties to select, how to arrange them on the plate or board, and tips for best storage.
For example, two to four cheeses are ample for an hors d’oeuvre or dessert fromage plate. A good rule of thumb is that the key to making an impact lies in the quality and variety of the selections―not the quantity. Remind customers that the best placement for discovery and comparison is in a clock formation, with the mildest cheese at 12 o’clock and the most pungent and complex at the end of the dial. It’s also important to advise against serving enormous blocks of cheese, as diners often prefer to enjoy a variety of little bites rather than big portions.
Accoutrements. For appetizer and dessert plates, adding thinly sliced apples, pears, or fruit chutney is wonderfully satisfying. Freshly cut figs, blackberries, golden raisins, nuts, and bitter greens also serve as wonderful accompaniments. Toast points or thin baguette slices are thoughtful alternatives to crackers. They also open the door for other additions, including quince paste, honey or plum butter.
Pairings: Creating a Memorable Experience
When people consider pairings with fromage, they naturally think of wine. Pairing specialty beers, as well, is growing in popularity, and makes sometimes unfamiliar cheese selections more of an option for certain audiences. This week’s dinner party fromage selections served with wine could lead to next week’s football cheese board menu–with a slightly different selection of cheeses and specialty beers.
Some fromage pairing suggestions with wine and beer that might prove helpful:
Comté, one of France’s most popular cheeses, is known for its nutty, slightly salty-yet-sweet taste. It pairs beautifully with the lush, floral fruits of a nice Gewϋrtztraminer, or with the earthy, ripe cherry notes of a Pinot Noir from Oregon’s Willamette Valley.
Camembert, a world-renowned cow’s milk cheese with a buttery, grassy flavor, is well-suited for a semi-dry Montlouis Sparkling Vouvray, such as Domaine Francois Chidaine from France’s Loire Valley. Champagne also is a natural match, and a fruity Cru Beaujolais (such as Domaine de la Roche St. Martin from Burgundy), is a sumptuous complement.
Roquefort’s strong, savory flavor is a good fit for the more adventuresome served alongside whites like Muscat and bold reds―such as a big, zesty Red Zinfandel. It’s a decadent way to finish any meal.
Mimolette’s nutty, fruity flavors pair well with wheat beers, such as Hefeweizen, or with a classic stout, such as Guinness.
Epoisses, an appealing cow’s milk cheese with a soft, smooth texture and distinctive aroma, is a good choice to pair with brown ales, such as Newcastle Brown Ale, Samuel Smith’s Nut Brown Ale, or Pete’s Wicked Ale.
Cantal, a cheddar-like, semi-hard cow’s milk cheese cured with salt is sweet (when young) or sharper (when well-aged). It’s an ideal match for pilsners, such as Heineken, Amstel, or Pilsner Urquell.
Cap Gris Nez, a rich, creamy, intensely flavor-filled cheese from France’s northern coastal region, it pairs quite well with browns or porters, such as Anchor Porter, Sierra Nevada Porter, and Smuttynose Robust Porter.
Above all, remember that, given personal preferences, there are no hard and fast “rules” for French cheese and pairings. An endless variety of combinations is possible when customers begin discovering and understanding the incredible variety of cheeses from France. Once they have the basic knowledge to navigate the fromage counter or menu, they can build on their experience, and begin to make bolder fromage choices.
Encourage hosts to brainstorm their own cheese combinations as they get more comfortable. As you are planning events, promotions, or special dinners this year, remember that French cheeses and your ability to guide customers through the exploration and discovery process could result in a whole new crowd of fromage fans.
Bon appétit!
Jen Beltz is with The Cheeses of France Marketing Council, which promotes the extensive and distinctive varieties of imported French cheeses, a unique group in the growing specialty cheese category. For more information about terroir, the Mediterranean Diet, or Fromage Plate suggestions, visit www.CheesesOfFrance.com .