During the evolution through the R&D development cycle, retaining the culinary integrity is most challenging during scale-up; what was a tender texture can become an inconsistent, rubbery mass. “As for scale up, the biggest challenges were the changes in moisture which arise from less evaporation during the mixing, coupled with the longer mix times, which meant adjusting starches again,” says Kahrs. This was a problem for both the fried and steamed dumplings, he says, “although too much moisture in the fried items is more of an issue,” because it promotes cracking/bursting during the freeze and fry steps.
The quality of pre-made dumplings and other dim sum staples on the market is improving. Implementation of sound culinary expertise enhanced by the skilled application of food technology has resulted in products that fit within today’s tight restrictions on cost, labor, and cook times without sacrificing flavor or texture.
Robert Danhi, C.H.E., C.C.E., C.E.C., C.C.P, is principal of Chef Danhi & Co., Los Angeles, and author and photographer of “Southeast Asian Flavors—Adventures in cooking the foods of Thailand, Vietnam, Malaysia, and Singapore” (Mortar and Press, Oct. 2008). Chef Danhi & Co.’s expertise resides in menu and product R&D, sales and marketing support, and educational and training programs. Danhi leads culinary immersion tours for anyone who seeks a better understanding of the culinary cultures of Southeast Asia, and he is a member of the Research Chefs Association. For more information, please visit
southeastasianflavors.com
and
chefdanhi.com
.
A Dim Sum Sampler
Walk into any dim sum restaurant in the United States, and as soon as you order tea, your table is set with chili sauce, mustard and soy sauce—three condiments that have become staples to accentuate tastes and spice up the meal.
The Usual Suspects
• Cha siu bao—barbecued pork buns
• Shui mai—steamed pork and shrimp dumplings
• Chuen guen—spring rolls
• Woo gok—taro and pork dumplings
• Har dor see—shrimp toast
• Jun jui kau—pearl pork balls
• Dan taat—egg custard tarts
A wide range of concepts can work in dim sum. For instance, little orange chicken buns can result from stuffing that iconic Americanized Cantonese dish into a steamed bun. Or remove some of the cheap cabbage from spring rolls and replace it with succulent roasted pork.