Chocolate Dessert Obsession

12/23/2008 6:00:00 AM Jean-Yves Charon, Contributing Editor
ARTICLE TOOLS
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Lastly, I think people are really starting to think about the pros and cons of sourcing and knowing the origins of the ingredients they are using and, at the same time, balancing this quest with a growing awareness of the true cost of importing ingredients. Chefs need to balance their desire for the very best with educating themselves on what may be available to them locally. Since chocolate raw materials come exclusively from outside the United States, this connection to local ingredients might come in the form of deriving manufactured chocolate ingredients from a local company, or via sourcing other ingredients for the dessert from local manufacturers.

Adventurous inspirations

I think, dream, eat, live and breathe desserts, and inspiration for developing innovative, chocolate-based products comes from many sources. I’ve noticed, for example, that high-quality, easy-to-utilize products are clearly missing from the market. Galaxy’s Triple Mousse Cake—with layers of dark-, milk- and white-chocolate mousse, topped with white-chocolate shavings—in individually sized, easy-to-plate portions is one example of how we filled a market need.

Another source of innovation for me is expanding upon successful product concepts. After the success of our recent Cannelés—a baked dessert with a vanilla-rum custard center, originating in the Bordeaux region of France—I decided to create a chocolate version, as well.

World travel always interests me, as does discovering regional desserts that I can adapt to the American market. I visit every local bakery, no matter what city or country I’m in. I constantly read books on chocolate and desserts, and further my education. Tasting is key for me in inspiring new ideas for dessert products. I love tasting exotic fruits when I’m traveling abroad, and I also taste regional desserts when I’m out to eat.

I can be inspired by a single ingredient. I recently tasted a unique Colombian chocolate with a dynamic coffee flavor that was inherent in the bean. I’m already dreaming about new products I can make using this chocolate. I was invited to visit the farm where the beans are grown; however, due to the presence of the FARC rebel organization, my Colombian friends strongly discouraged me from visiting. I am not deterred in my determination to find a safe way to source this ingredient, and whatever product I create with it will certainly have a great story behind it, as well as a great name, like The Rebel Cake.

Whether you’re a pastry chef in a four-star restaurant, a chef in a chain restaurant, or a food scientist in R&D, find your own sources of inspiration and don’t be afraid to be creative with ingredients or products. Whether it’s adapting recipes and adding your own twists or experimenting with plating or presentation options, the best ideas often come from trial and error, and the very best ideas come from your own experience.

Jean-Yves Charon co-founder of Galaxy Desserts, Richmond, CA, has over 25 years of experience in developing and manufacturing desserts in the classic French tradition. In France, he worked as manager for Brioche Dorée/Paris Croissant, opening stores in London, Paris, Canada and New York. After moving to the United States, he managed production for Saralan, a cookie manufacturer in South San Francisco, and served as executive pastry chef at Harris’ Restaurant in San Francisco. He then founded Paris Delights, which merged with The Cheesecake Lady to form Galaxy Desserts. He has won the National Association for the Specialty Food Trade Outstanding Dessert in the U.S. Award, and his croissants have been featured twice on Oprah’s Favorite Things and on Oprah’s Favorite Breakfast. Charon is a member of the Research Chefs Association.

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