Faux Fried

Amy Schauwecker Comments
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Close your eyes and visualize sizzling fries, or imagine the unmistakable fragrance of coffee and freshly fried doughnuts. Fried foods remind many Americans of the comfort food they grew up with. So why would the food industry dare to replace the fried foods consumers regularly crave and purchase?

Unfortunately, traditionally fried foods contain generous servings of fat, still too often the unhealthy trans type, and most health professionals would not be found prescribing them.

The health issues surrounding fried foods provide an opportunity for food manufacturers to offer products that still look and taste like fried foods, but with reduced fat. Fried food mimics generally take the form of coated meats, chips and appetizers. Manufacturers attempt to achieve significant fat reduction by changing the cooking method, oil, coating, protein and/or starch in these products.

Gold standard

While manufacturers can attest that duplicating traditional fried food is extremely challenging, they are still up to the task. “Frying the food, whether deep frying or flash frying, brings a unique taste to the food, which is very complex and different from baking or boiling,” explains Yogi Desai, R&D manager, FONA International, Inc., Geneva, IL. During frying, the oil is exposed to 180°C temperatures, moisture, oxygen and food particles for varying amounts of time. Oxidation, polymerization and hydrolysis reactions degrades the oil. Free fatty acids are produced, oxidative reactions form volatile compounds and the smoke point of the oil is lowered. Some reactions are undesirable, but many contribute to favorable sensory attributes. “The fried flavors are directly associated with frying in oil, and the type of oil used also imparts a different flavor characteristic to the food. The hydrogenation of the oils, such as soybean oil versus doughnut fry shortening, also affects the flavor,” he says.

The high temperatures gelatinize starches in the substrate, and add texture, flavor and color. “The moisture content in the substrate also impacts the flavor and degree of absorption of the oils. The amount of carbohydrates or protein also affects the taste. For example, high carbohydrates provide a golden-brown crust,” explains Desai, while “high protein offers a crispier texture.” Fried food can absorb up to 40% of frying oil by weight, and that is the main driver prompting scientists to develop alternatives.

Functional layering


Functional breading systems with premium flavor and lower carbohydrate and fat are suitable for baked proteins, such as turkey fingers.
Photo: National Turkey Federation 

Components and steps in the coating system of traditional fried substrates vary, but each play an important role in delivering the end product. They exhibit characteristics that are the gold standard for non-fried versions.

It is important to discuss a multi-step layered foundation that enrobes the fried substrate first. Commercially fried chicken is often pre-marinated with phosphates and flavors that help tenderize, bind moisture and enhance flavor. The meat might then be pre-dusted with starch and flour to improve binding of the subsequent layers. Adhesive or spongy batter consisting of starch, flour and more binding ingredients like milk and egg may then be added. The batter layer allows the breading to adhere, and adds more bulk to the coating. The seasoned breading is the final layer added for flavor, color, appearance and texture.

Fortunately for fried mimics, coating trends are in the lower-carb arena, and these layers can be minimized. Product designers have developed many innovative coatings for proteins that perform through the harsh drying conditions of baking. Manufacturers and restaurants offer baked foods with crunchy ingredients like breadcrumbs, nuts, extruded particulates and cheese encrusted on the protein surface. A glaze may be added beneath the encrusted layer for flavor and color, as well as to lock in moisture. Ingredient suppliers also have developed adhesive gels with starches, fibers and proteins that form crisp films when heated. Whey and methylcellulose are typical ingredients selected for adhesive properties in baked batters.

Some manufacturers have even added whole-grain breading to chicken nuggets offered in schools, for the added claim of fiber, and because fiber has been shown to reduce oil absorption in fried coatings. Children are well-known finicky eaters, so matching the fried flavor in a baked chicken nugget is imperative.

“The profile of the fried flavor is dependent on so many factors and, as a flavor chemist, one must understand and anticipate the chemical and physical changes taking place in the food during the process of frying,” explains Desai. “The basic mechanism for the flavor generation in the fried food is the browning—Maillard browning reaction—partial breakdown (by oxidation) of the oils into fatty acids, and extraction of flavoring components from the substrate. The finished flavor is compounded using the simulated Maillard browning in the oil substrate, and then the characteristic top-note components are added to give a complete flavor system. These flavors are usually based on fats, but the usage levels are usually under 0.5%, and this keeps it under the required limits of no fat,” he says.

The application of these flavors can be tricky, regarding how to use them and what form to use. “For example, the best place to put charbroil flavor for chicken breast is in the marinade and inject it. For a batter-and-breaded product, the technologist adds the flavor close to the substrate, either as marinade or in the predust,” says Desai.

Some products may be formulated for dual reconstitution: baked or fried. Formulating the coating for lower oil absorption can provide a lower-fat solution for a food that may inevitably be fried. “Remyline AX-FGP rice starch has been shown to reduce fat uptake by up to 50% when used as a replacement for 5% of a flour component in a snack. The rice starch creates a matrix in the dough, which prevents migration of fat into the piece,” explains Gil Bakal, managing director, A&B Ingredients, Inc., Fairfield, NJ. “Tortilla chips are the most-common food product using the rice-starch technology. An added benefit is that the chips are also less prone to breakage, due to the starch film that is present in the chip. The rice starch is used at a level of 2% to 5%, replacing part of the corn flour used.” Rice starches tend to be more expensive than other flours, and there may be issues in getting good dispersion in some applications.

Research at Texas A&M University, College Station, also shows potential to significantly reduce the fat content in the protein substrate alone. “We have worked to make a meat analogue from soy protein. These meat analogues can be flavored with any flavor; for example, pork, beef, chicken, mutton, fish flavors,” states Mian N. Riaz, Ph.D., director, food protein R&0D center, Texas A&M University. The analogues mimic the appearance of the meat protein. Fried chicken nuggets composed of the textured soy protein analogue are commercially available and claim that the fat level is reduced by 75% compared to the traditional fried chicken nuggets.

Cosmetics and driers

Well-known technology assists appearance and texture of commercially available non-fried foods. “Most foods generate yellow to dark-brown colors as they are fried. If a food lacks these colors, it is not appetizing. By using the appropriate caramel color, a product that would otherwise not look fried can gain that pleasing appearance,” says David L. Tuescher, technical director, Sethness Products Company, Clinton, IA.

Many of the colors generated by cooking are generated by reactions between carbohydrates and proteins. Caramel colors are based on similar reactions. “Carbohydrates are heated with or without various chemicals that mimic the natural reactions. Concentration is very important to the final color. A Class I caramel color at a yellow concentration can make chicken look like it was fried. At a low concentration, a Class I caramel color is very bright yellow. As the concentration increases, it changes to a nice red color, and finally to a brown color. A Class IV product follows the same trend; however, the shade has more of a grayish-to-black tint. Caramel colors are a great way to impart the proper color when it is not formed during the cooking process. Caramel colors can be used with other coloring agents; however, most applications can be achieved solely with caramel color,” says Tuescher.

Caramel colors work well in meat and grain-based applications. “Caramel colors do not handle the bright colors like bright red, green, and blue or purple. However, caramel colors work well in just about any application requiring a yellow, red, brown to almost black color. We are currently working with companies using flavors and caramel color to reproduce the fried-food taste and appearance without actually frying the food,” explains Tuescher.

The appearance and crispy texture in chips is achieved mainly by driving off moisture. Starches can easily be dried through baking, dehydrating, extruding and air popping. No frying step is required. The chips have less fat than conventional methods and tend to be lighter in texture due to the porous starch behavior in the processing.

Mock micro-fried

Microwave susceptor packaging technology also helps give the appearance and texture of fried foods without the deep frying. “Microwave susceptors partially absorb, reflect and transmit microwave energy. The absorbed energy is converted to sensible heat. When placed in contact with a food to be ‘fried’ in the microwave, the susceptor heats up to between 350°F to 425°F, creating a temperature gradient at the food surface which can brown, dehydrate and crisp the surface, helping to create the food texture consumers expect and enjoy,” says Ken Orze, vice president, microwave packaging, Graphic Packaging International, Marietta, GA.

“We develop, manufacture and market microwave active packaging that enhances the cook performance of our customer’s food products. Microwave ovens do not require the oil or fat vehicle necessary in frying. Although we have not collected data on fat reduction, our package results in browned, crisped and evenly heated food from the microwave oven that rivals the fried and baked alternatives, and at a fraction of the preparation time,” claims Orze.

The “fried-like” aspects are enhanced when the technology is combined with other ingredients. “Formulation of coatings and controlled water activity of the foodstuff are extremely important to good outcomes. Microwave energy heats foods very quickly, so there is not a lot of time to dehydrate the food from a high water- activity state,” says Orze.

“We have experienced a rise in demand for active microwave packaging, and our line of packaging is gaining marketplace notice. Heinz Easy Fries, Van de Kamp fish and Beckers Spring Rolls have all been successfully commercialized with our technology. Packaging costs will increase modestly to incorporate the microwave susceptor technology,” says Orze. He notes that the foods’ formulation may need to be altered to optimize the food’s cook performance.

Fat chance

For products that are par-fried and then baked off by the consumer, industrial manufacturers are offering new oils that are fit for the fryers, or even for use as an oil coating to mimic the flavor and feel of a fried food. The FDA requirement to label trans fats as of Jan. 2006 prompted the industry to look at new industrial oils. Plant-breeding methods are churning out high-stability lipids. Formulators can use oils that add functional benefits, such as reduced cholesterol or significantly reduced saturated and trans fats. Suppliers are providing varieties with increased oleic-acid levels and with reduced levels of linolenic acid, resulting in elimination of the hydrogenation step. Midoleic sunflower oil, high-oleic canola oil, and low-linolenic soybean oil perform well in frying applications and have high smoke points. Omega-3 oils have been recognized by scientists due to research suggesting that the fats help reduce low-density lipoprotein (LDL, or “bad”) cholesterol and either have a neutral effect on high-density lipoprotein (HDL, or “good”) cholesterol, or raise it.

Omega-3 oils traditionally have low oxidative stability, especially at high temperatures found in fryers and ovens. Researchers are finding ways around this with microencapsulation techniques using gums, dairy proteins and even beet-sugar pectin. Manufacturers have begun fortifying meat breadings successfully with omega-3 oils further extending the healthy-halo.

For those looking to do away with fat entirely, yet keep the high-temperature functionality, a look at the fat mimetic Olestra may be in order. Olestra may receive a wave of good news to offset the less than desirable gastrointestinal side effects and potential vitamin and carotenoid depletion that have dominated the press. Recent preliminary research reported at the University of Western Australia, Perth, suggests that human consumption of chips with the fat substitute removes environmental toxicants such as dioxin.

Numerous successful foods use baking, drying, extrusion, microwave technology, fat-reduced oils, functional breading systems and complex flavors to mimic their fried counterparts. Opportunities still exist in coatings, cooking equipment, substrates and oils for product developers to optimize fat levels and move the total product closer to the sensory standards expected from fried food. 

Amy Schauwecker has an M.S. in Food Technology from the Illinois Institute of Technology. She is an R&D manager at Merisant, Chicago. She may be contacted at amyschauw@yahoo.com

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