Dessert Sauces

James Brisson, C.E.C., C.C.E. Comments
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The historical evolution of sauce development, especially dessert sauces, is difficult to track due to the lack of ancient manuscripts that remain for study. Sauce historians began analyzing the cooking styles of the ancient Greeks mostly through the writings and teachings of Archestrate. However, she wrote more about the procurement of ingredients rather than the techniques of cooking.

Much knowledge of sauce making in ancient Roman times was provided by the teachings of Apicius, a chef and gourmand who historians believed lived sometime between about the 1st century B.C. to the 1st century A.D. He wrote two cookbooks, one on sauces and a second that incorporated the sauce recipes, known as De re Coquinaria ("On Cooking"). Reviewing his translated ancient manuscripts reveals the usage of both sweet and savory ingredients, such as honey, spices and herbs, in sauce making. The sauces were found on savory as well as sweet dishes.

Today, dessert sauces are used primarily to enhance the sweet product. For example, pairing chocolate pot de crème (a creamy, rich custard) with crème anglaise (a rich custard sauce) or chantilly cream (lightly sweetened, and sometimes flavored, whipped cream) provides contrast and offsets the extra sweetness and bitterness in the chocolate. But, if paired with a fruit coulis (a thick purée) or compote, the slightly acidic note from the fruit will tone-down the pot de crème's sweetness.

My first childhood experience with making a dessert sauce occurred when I was merely two years old. Having escaped the clutches of my baby-sitting aunt, I crawled into the cupboard, got a box of gelatin dessert mix, procured some water and found a convenient spot on my parent's Oriental rug and quickly began mixing my concoction. What a sticky mess that was ... but more importantly, it marked my first culinary learning experience. While I did not realize it the time, this was my inner chef calling.

Years later, after culinary school, I learned that while savory sauces are grouped into mother-sauce categories, dessert sauces are not. They are merely classified and categorized into the following: egg-based sauces, chocolate-based sauces, caramelized-sugar sauces, and fruit-based sauces. Dessert sauces are a creative component and function as a topping, filling or decoration. In the retail and foodservice arena, manufacturers offer a plethora of dessert sauces in various flavor profiles packed in trendy, labor-saving squirt bottles, aseptic packaging, and consumer-friendly, convenient, plastic pouches.

Egging-on the flavor

Advances in manufacturing as well as packaging technology in recent years now make it possible to closely replicate classical culinary techniques of egg-based dessert sauces in the manufacturing plant without overly compromising taste, texture and mouthfeel.

The traditional ingredients in crème anglaise are cane sugar, egg yolks, milk and vanilla bean. Its flavor profile is derived from the egginess, creaminess and fatty mouthfeel these ingredients contribute. To keep the integrity of this classical sauce in a manufactured product, mouthfeel, viscosity and flavor cannot be compromised.

So, what can a processor do to manufacture a product with those noted, from-scratch attributes? First and foremost, adhere to the integrity and standards of the classical culinary technique while also balancing cost parameters. For example, to insure a creamy, fatty mouthfeel, a blend of gums and starches can be developed that addresses the appropriate time, temperature and processing technique required for the product. These not only stabilize the finished product, but careful selection can mimic some of the ingredients' mouthfeel.

Milk is the dominant ingredient that contributes the sauce's creamy and lactic qualities. Using real milk in processing can cause problems due to storage and/or handling and processing issues, such as potential scalding, but it is highly recommended when manufacturing crème anglaise. Alternatively, if a formula dictates that dry mix must replace the liquid milk, a tight specification is also necessary to develop the right creaminess.

Using raw, liquid egg yolks in a plant can sometimes prove problematic. However, replacement ingredients, such as dry egg yolk powders, are available. A mix of both wet and dry egg yolks is preferable in processing environments to maintain both the mouthfeel and viscosity requirements.

Today's chefs are taking crème anglaise to more-advanced culinary altitudes. For example, they might substitute the vanilla traditionally found in crème anglaise with herbs and spices, such as lemon thyme, lemon grass, lavender, spearmint and basil to create an offbeat, original take on this classic sauce.

The French make sabayon -- also known as zabaglione in Italian and zabaione in the United States -- a foamy, cooked, egg-based dessert sauce that traditionally uses wine as the main flavor component. Sweet sabayon is derived from eggs, wine and cream, whereas its savory counterpart is derived from a stock-and-herb-flavored sauce. This is one of the few sauces where the wine flavor profile is not lost but remains quite intense. Although both sweet and savory versions of sabayon exist, one of the most-common versions of sabayon is flavored with sweet Marsala wine. Another interesting variety uses Champagne in place of sweet Marsala. Sometimes these sauces are further flavored with fruit after the cooling process. Sabayons and zabagliones typically accent cake, fruit, ice cream or pastry.

Classic chocolate creativity

When we think of chocolate sauces, chocolate syrup probably brings back childhood memories of opening cans of Hershey's syrup and pouring hesitating, lavalike layers of gooey chocolate syrup on top of ice cream. Over the years, cans transformed into consumer-friendly plastic squeeze bottles. These days, multiple manufactured chocolate sauces enhance the rich and unique dessert platforms that surround us.

In the test kitchen, making chocolate syrup requires sugar, cocoa and bittersweet chocolate. But when translating this into a manufactured product, corn syrup replaces most of the sugar, and the syrup might require the addition of emulsifiers, such as polysorbates or lecithin. Also, many manufacturer formulas will omit the bittersweet chocolate in favor of an all-cocoa sauce. When formulating, it is important to balance the cocoa and sweetness profile.

Traditional chocolate sauce is derived from heavy cream, butter, egg yolks and melted bittersweet chocolate. Parameters, such as time, temperature and viscosity, are as important as ingredient selection. Cost parameters are closely evaluated.

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