Breads on the Rise

Donna Berry Comments
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Bakers need to be aware that bread is not "out" -- in fact, it is very much "in." The low-carb craze is changing the way consumers think about carbohydrates, and in turn, bakers should respond by formulating breads that contain more of the better-for-you carbohydrates, such as dietary fiber, and fewer refined carbohydrates.

The graining of America

"Eat more whole grains" will likely be the buzz phrase in the coming year as forces in the food world unite, influencing what consumers eat on a daily basis. By no means is this new news, but when the U.S. government plans to educate consumers that not all carbohydrates are created equal, something carb counters have been preaching the past few years, you have a collective message going out to Americans, one for sure to be exploited by the media. That puts breads formulated with whole grains way ahead of the curve.

This is not to say that all breads must be "whole grain," particularly some of those that are classified as artisan, as such breads generally rely on specific refined flours. Artisan breads play a unique role in the feeding of America. After all, it is artisan breads that have invaded sandwich shops and restaurant bread baskets across the country, and quite successfully. However, advanced technologies also make it possible to boost the fiber levels in such breads without using whole-grain flour.

On the sandwich side of the business, according to a recent study by Chicago-based foodservice analyst Technomic Inc., hand-held food items, such as sandwiches, account for about one-fourth of consumer spending in foodservice. The study predicts that the market for deli, sub and hoagie sandwiches will grow 6% annually during the next three years. This is quite impressive when compared to the sale of hamburgers made with the ubiquitous "hamburger bun," which are only expected to increase less than 1% each year.

Technomic researchers explain that consumers are more concerned about their intake of total fat, saturated fat, calories and sugar in foodservice settings. They are less concerned with avoiding the general category of carbohydrates, despite considerable media attention. "Our research indicates that foodservice suppliers and operators should be aware that consumer health and nutrition concerns go well beyond carbohydrates," says Robert Goldin, executive vice president, Technomic. "While media attention has been heavily focused on carbohydrates, our research indicates that other areas are of greater concern to foodservice consumers."

Differentiating whole-grains

Let's backtrack just a bit. On August 27, the Dietary Guidelines Advisory Committee, appointed by the Departments of Health and Human Services and Agriculture, issued a report saying that the Food Guide Pyramid needs to be modified to help Americans make more fiber-rich choices when selecting foods from the fruit, vegetable and grains groups. For example, when choosing bread, the pyramid should "guide" consumers into picking whole grains rather than refined grains that one would get in white bread.

Why do we need more fiber? Well, about two years ago, the U.S. National Academy of Science established the first Dietary Reference Intakes for dietary fiber. For adult males, it is 38 grams per day, and for females, 25 grams per day. Unfortunately, the typical American diet only provides about half the dietary-fiber requirement.

The Advisory Committee stresses the fact that carbohydrates -- the sugars, starches and fibers found in fruits, vegetables, grains and milk products -- are an important part of a healthful diet and the major energy source in most diets. After all, sugars and starches supply energy to the body in the form of glucose, which is the only energy source for red blood cells and the preferred energy source for the brain, central nervous system, placenta and fetus, and for muscle cells when operating anaerobically.

In other words, carbohydrates are not taboo like the media has made them out to be in the past year. Indeed, they are a fundamental part of the diet. But not all carbohydrates are good for you in large amounts. Whole grains (as compared to refined grains as found in white flour) are considered a preferred carbohydrate, as they deliver the outer and inner layers of the grain.

Enough people believe in the importance of consuming whole grains and fiber that a consortium of industry, scientists and chefs joined together to the form the Whole Grains Council, Boston (www.wholegrainscouncil.org). "One of the original goals of the Whole Grains Council was to help consumers understand just what is a whole grain," says Michael Orlando, chairman, Whole Grains Council and chairman of the board, Sunnyland Mills, Fresno, CA. To meet this need, the group incorporated suggestions from members of the American Association of Cereal Chemists (AACC) and established this definition: "Whole grains or foods made from them contain all the essential parts and naturally occurring nutrients of the entire grain seed. If the grain has been processed (e.g., cracked, crushed, rolled, extruded, lightly pearled and/or cooked), the food product should deliver approximately the same rich balance of nutrients that are found in the original grain seed."

Examples of generally accepted whole-grain foods and flours include amaranth, barley (lightly pearled), brown and colored rice, buckwheat, bulgur, corn and whole cornmeal, emmer, farro, grano (lightly pearled wheat), kamut, millet, oatmeal and whole oats, popcorn, quinoa, sorghum, spelt, triticale, whole rye, whole or cracked wheat, wheat berries, and wild rice.

Food manufacturers and ingredient suppliers have also taken an active stand in raising carbohydrate awareness. For example, in July, National Starch & Chemical Company, Bridgewater, NJ, submitted a Citizen's Petition to FDA asking the agency to modify carbohydrate-content labeling on foods to create more standardization regarding carbohydrate information, allowing consumers to make better-educated food choices.

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