Handheld And Healthy

Nancy Backas Comments
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Sandwiches have been the mainstay of the American diet for a long time, so much so we could consider ourselves a hand-held culture. People eat at their desks, on the run and even driving their cars. We have begun to realize, however, that some of these quick meals are not too good for our waistlines or our health: They may pack a wallop of calories (many from fat), but they do not offer much else in the way of nutrients.

Efforts in years past by a number of quick-service chains to go lean haven't been all that successful. For example, in the 1990s, McDonalds' 320-calorie McLean Deluxe hamburger was a high-profile flop pulled 5 years after its debut, and customers turned off Taco Bell's Border Light Menu. But as Bob Goldin, executive vice president of Technomic, a Chicago-based restaurant consultant group, says, "The times and climate have changed." With consumers' renewed interest in eating good-for-you food, it's time to try the healthful approach once again. And that old mainstay, the sandwich, holds the most promise to deliver this lifestyle, keeping the calorie, fat or carb count low, and the taste satisfying. From fast feeders to fast-casual and beyond, the healthful sandwich is in the spotlight.

What is healthy?

The definition of "good-for-you" food means different things to different people today. Who would have thought that a bacon burger without the bun would ever be considered healthful? Some who have adopted, at least for the short term, the newly popular high-protein and low-carbohydrate diets consider this perfectly acceptable. These low-carb eating patterns also mean the development of new products, like low-carb, high-protein breads.

To others, healthy means low-fat or low-cholesterol, leading to the design of lower-fat meats, poultry and cheeses, in addition to low-fat dressings and spreads to go on sandwiches. Healthy can also mean natural or organic foods, grown and produced without pesticides and made with as few additives as possible. Or it can mean high-fiber, nutrient-dense or just fresh, i.e., made with fresh ingredients cooked to order.

And finally, from a health standpoint, one of the biggest controversies in the food industry is portion size. On the one hand, consumer advocacy groups say that portion sizes are too large and that Americans have become accustomed to supersized everything. Much of the blame has fallen on the foodservice industry. They counter by arguing that consumers want a good value, expect to get a lot for their money and don't mind sharing or taking part of their order home for later consumption.  

Not only are the myriad ideas of what is healthful confusing to consumers, but also to foodservice operators who have to sort through what consumers want and don't want, what will sell and what won't sell, and if it makes sense to add something new to the menu when the latest health craze may be short-lived. After all, many low-fat, low-calorie foods fell flat because they really didn't taste all that good. The challenge today, then, is to come up with products that are wholesome and have a natural appearance and mouthfeel, fulfilling the desire for healthful eating.

The skinny on sandwiches

Seemingly, every quick-service sandwich chain today is lightening up in an effort to improve its bottom line. Hardee's Food Systems, Inc., St. Louis, is testing low-carb burgers wrapped in lettuce instead of a bun. Oprah's personal trainer is pitching for McDonald's Corporation, Oak Brook, IL. And Burger King Corporation, Miami, is launching low-fat chicken sandwiches promoted by Chicago chef and natural-foods advocate Rick Bayless and Food Network celebrity Rachel Ray.

Subway Restaurants, Milford, CT, was at the forefront of this trend, quietly promoting its healthful alternatives until Jared came along and became a household name in weight loss. "We didn't look for Jared Fogle. It was just something that happened," says Les Winograd, public relations coordinator for the chain. "We found out about him in a magazine article and our advertising department called him to find out if he was a looney." It turned out, of course, that he wasn't and that he indeed had lost 245 lbs. by eating Subway sandwiches.

"We have always been the alternative to greasy, fatty fast food. We've been doing it since the beginning of the company. The only difference is we tell people about it now, we talk about all the healthy aspects," Winograd adds. He says one of the reasons the sandwich chain can claim to be a healthy alternative is that it uses fresh ingredients and lots of vegetables. The company has been recognized by the National Cancer Institute, Rockville, MD, and Produce for Better Health Foundation, Wilmington, DE, which granted Subway a license to use its "5 A Day" logo.

"There is a believability factor. People like the taste of our sandwiches and know that there are seven sandwiches that contain 6 grams of fat or less," says Winograd. When prepared to standard formula, a typical 6-in. Subway sandwich provides two servings of vegetables, while the foot-long version provides four servings. The low-fat sandwiches include flavorful selections like Sweet Onion Chicken Teriyaki and Red-Wine Vinaigrette Club with Honey-Mustard Ham. Customers can choose fat-free sauces for any sandwich.

Subway has begun to offer two Atkins® Nutritionals, Inc.-endorsed low-carbohydrate wraps: the Turkey and Bacon Melt Wrap, with Monterey Cheddar cheese, and the Chicken Bacon Ranch Wrap, with Swiss cheese. Both have 11 grams Net Carbs or less. The flatbread wrap itself, which is made with wheat gluten, cornstarch, oat, sesame flour and soy protein, has only 5 grams Net Carbs.

More healthful fare

Arby's, Inc., Fort Lauderdale, FL, is taking an aggressive stance toward developing more-healthful products. While many of its sandwiches are already on the lower-fat side, the company's philosophy is to create menu items and products that will appeal to every healthful desire. "We are aggressively developing products that will make it apparent to consumers that they can practice any chosen diet at Arby's, whether they are looking for low-fat, low-carb or a basic balanced diet. We want to offer everything for a healthful diet," says Michael Welch, senior vice president, operations.

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