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October 2003
Humans consumed fruit during prehistoric times and began
cultivating different varieties about 6,000 years ago. Fresh fruits
became a dietary staple, and the development of simple processing techniques,
such as drying, allowed people to enjoy fruit throughout the year. Ancient Greeks and Romans revered certain fruits for their supposed aphrodisiac and medicinal properties. The kingdoms of Europe elevated other fruits to royal delicacies. And today, what would a warm summer day be without a tall, cold glass of lemonade or a bowl of fruit salad? Or, imagine a crisp autumn afternoon without warm apple pie or a cup of tea infused with raspberry. Fruits are truly versatile, incorporated into a variety of products.
In addition to the fruity delights grown domestically,
supermarkets carry tasty treats such as mangoes from the Caribbean,
kiwis from New Zealand and some lesser-known fruits such as sapodillas
and rambutans from Central America. The United States also imports fruits
from South America, Asia and Australia. Mexico and Chile import the
most fruit to the United States, shipping more than half of all fresh
(excluding bananas) and frozen fruit into this country. Increases in the amounts of fruit available have led consumers, chefs and food scientists to formulate with fruits, creating foods that match Mom’s apple pie or conceiving new visual and taste sensations. These innovations go beyond the basic fruit cocktail or the much-maligned fruitcake to include savory dishes, creamy beverages and health bars. Many recipes and food products feature the more-popular fruits in the United States, such as oranges, grapes, apples and bananas, due to their wide acceptability. Others are beginning to incorporate sweet, sour, acidic or tangy fruits with beautiful-sounding names traditionally found in far-away lands: cherimoyas, sapodillas, carambolas, pepinos and tamarillos — in salads, salsas, sauces, jams and jellies, sorbet and ice cream.
An indentation at the stem end of the fruit, remnants
of a flower at the other end and a core containing seeds characterize
pome fruits. These include apples, pears, quinces and meddlars. Raw
quinces are inedible; however, this highly aromatic fruit is used to
make jelly and, in Spain, is combined with sugar and lemon juice to
make a fruit paste called membrillo, which is used in pastries, spread
on bread or served with cheese. Apples and pears are commercially available in several
hundred varieties that differ in size, color, texture and flavor. Most
varieties of apples can be eaten raw. Certain varieties retain more
of their shape and flavor after cooking and can be dried, canned, poached,
stewed, broiled or baked, and used in jams, jellies and fillings for
baked goods and to complement meat-based recipes. “The variety
of apples chosen for a filling will make a difference in characteristics
of a pastry filling,” explains Scott Summers, director of technical
services, Tree Top Inc., Selah, WA. “Red Delicious apples tend
to cook up to a sweeter, softer dice. Golden Delicious apples vary from
early to late season, allowing flexibility in texture and flavor. Granny
Smith apples are typically a firm, tart dice in a filling.” Stone fruits, or drupes, including peaches, plums and cherries, have a single pit surrounded by soft, juicy flesh. Canned, frozen and dried peaches function well in numerous applications. The fruit’s sweet-tangy flavor and fine-textured flesh makes it a delightful ingredient in salads, chutneys, sauces, salsas, relishes and baked goods. Apricots and nectarines work in many of the same types of applications as peaches. Sweet and tart cherries make tasty cake and pie fillings and add a delicious flavor to beverages, sauces, salsas and meat dishes. Maraschino cherries — pitted cherries macerated in flavored syrup — top ice-cream sundaes. Bullaces, sloes, greengages and damsons (all varieties of plums) differ from one another by their sweetness and tartness, but all are good for jams and jellies. The tart damson adds flavor to savory meat dishes. Sloe, of course, is the main ingredient in sloe gin.
When fresh, berries make beautiful garnishes and decorations
for sweet and savory dishes because of their small size, bright colors
and different textures. The softer berries, such as raspberries and
strawberries, often lose their shape after processing. Their types —
blueberries, raspberries, blackberries, strawberries, loganberries,
boysenberries, mulberries, cranberries — seem as infinite as their
uses: as ingredients and flavoring for alcoholic and nonalcoholic beverages;
fillings in pies, cakes and other bakery goods; jams and jellies; and
ingredients in dressings, salsas, sauces, glazes, ice cream, sorbets,
stuffing, meat dishes and salads. Mention the word “citrus” and breakfast beverages
come to mind. Oranges and grapefruits make tasty juice, but that is
not their sole function. Lemon and orange oils flavor tea, baked goods
and other foods. In foodservice, “We are seeing other uses for
citrus as it continues to move toward the center of the plate as an
ingredient in salsas and pasta,” says Susan Boyer, foodservice
consultant for Driscoll’s and Sunkist, Food Marketing Resources,
San Ramon, CA. Lemons and limes complement fish and accent alcoholic
drinks, dressings, marinades and desserts. Oranges such as Mandarins
add characteristic citrus notes to stews and marinades for poultry and
pork. “In addition, chefs featuring Latin, Caribbean, Mediterranean
and Asian dishes on menus are finding inspiration with citrus for their
recipes,” she says. Traditional uses of melons include fruit salads or garnishes;
however, chefs use melons such as cantaloupe, charentais, galia, muskmelon,
honeydew, Crenshaw and watermelon to impart a sweet taste to dressings,
cream cheese and mayonnaise, which can coat vegetables, fish, meat and
poultry. Pineapples and papayas don’t just give foods a tropical
accent, they make excellent natural alternatives to chemical meat tenderizers.
The enzymes bromelain, found in pineapples, and papain, found in papayas,
degrade protein, which helps to tenderize meat. Kiwis and babacos also
contain proteases. Tropical and exotic fruits, such as bananas, plantains, passion fruit, pomegranates, guavas, jujubes and dragon fruit, come in a variety of often strange and unusual shapes and sizes, helping chefs create beautiful decorations. For example, cutting a carambola crosswise results in a star-shaped piece. Use tropical and exotic fruits in the same applications as other fruits, such as jellies and beverages. Cookbooks featuring recipes from Central and South America and Asia can inspire formulations for processed foods, such as salad dressings, relishes, custards, smoothies, liqueurs and breads, as well as provide ideas for serving the fruit fresh, puréed, poached, baked or fried, or as an ingredient or side dish in savory and meat applications.
Fruits’ nutritional benefits are endless. Bananas,
grapes, guavas, strawberries and raspberries contain potassium. Figs,
dates, apples and pomegranates are high in fiber. Most fruits, especially
citrus and berries, contain vitamin C. Beta-carotene-rich fruits include
Mandarin oranges, mangoes and apricots. Other common vitamins and minerals
found in fruits are vitamin A (persimmons, papayas, mangoes and cherries),
vitamin B (strawberries, figs and peaches), niacin (gooseberries, guavas,
bananas and raspberries), riboflavin (bananas and raspberries) and phosphorus
(gooseberries and nectarines). “It’s possible to develop a blend that encompasses
a great variety of healthful fruit and vegetable characteristics,”
says Summers. “For example, the antioxidant characteristics of
apple, blueberry, cranberry and the benefits of oat fiber, etc., can
be developed to produce a product that combines all or many benefits
in a single cocktail-like ingredient.” One of the most widely studied aspects of fruits is their ability to possibly prevent many different diseases, such as cancer, heart disease and diabetes. Many varieties of fruit, such as plums, cherries, blueberries and strawberries, contain significant levels of antioxidants — compounds that neutralize free radicals linked to cell damage and the development of cancer and heart disease. Research shows these antioxidants may help significantly to inhibit the mutation of certain cancer cells and protect artery walls from the damage that ultimately leads to plaque build-up, clogged arteries and cardiovascular disease. Phytochemicals, which are naturally occurring, non-nutrient compounds such as flavonoids, ellagic acid, phenols and carotenoids, are responsible for the color, texture, smell and flavor in plants, and have disease-preventing capabilities.
Recent studies conducted on the health benefits of certain
fruits show promise in fruits’ potential anti-inflammatory characteristics,
improvement of older adults’ cognitive abilities and prevention
of urinary-tract infections. If you’re worried that you need to eat an entire
orchard of fruit to reap these nutritional benefits, fear not —
sensible portions will do the trick. A serving of strawberries (eight
medium-sized berries, or about 147 grams) provides 16% daily value (based
on a 2,000-calorie diet) of folate (B12), 160% daily value of vitamin
C and 16% daily value of fiber (4 grams), as well as high amounts of
antioxidants. One kiwi provides more than a day’s worth of required
vitamin C, one grapefruit yields almost double the requirement and one
orange provides twice the daily requirement. Half of a mango (140 grams)
contains 40% daily value of vitamin A. The American Heart Association, Dallas, recommends a total
daily dietary-fiber intake of 25 to 30 grams. With the variety of fiber-rich
fruits available, it’s easy to reach this level. One medium-sized
apple and a 1-cup serving (about 140 grams) of blueberries each contain
about 5 grams of dietary fiber. One cup (144 grams) of blackberries
provides 6 grams of fiber, and 1 cup (125 grams) of raspberries packs
a whopping 8 grams of fiber. Formulators can even take advantage of the fiber without
using the whole fruit. For example, apple fiber is made during apple
processing. “Solids are removed and dehydrated to less than 5%
moisture and 40% total dietary fiber — 10% soluble fiber and 30%
insoluble fiber,” says Summers. “Because of its bland flavor,
apple fiber can serve as a coating for other fruit ingredients in dry-cereal
applications. This helps prevent clumping. Apple fiber has high water-binding
capacity and can function as a thickener. It is typically used in baking
applications and may be used in fruit leather.” While rates of heart disease, diabetes and other ailments
escalate as the waistlines of Americans expand, fruit’s nutrient-dense
nature, low calories and disease-fighting compounds make it an excellent
ingredient choice. “Consumption is expected to continue to increase
as national attention rises on health and obesity concerns and consumers
increasingly shop for healthy, convenient foods,” says Chris Bartley
Christian, director of product and marketing, California Strawberry
Commission, Watsonville, CA. This growing concern, coupled with newly discovered health
benefits, increase fresh and processed fruits’ incorporation into
food products. But food scientists, manufacturers and chefs use them
for more than health reasons: Fresh and processed fruits, including
dried, concentrates, powders and flavors, add visual appeal and texture,
enhance flavors and colors of products, and act as humectants and antimicrobials.
“Fruit is natural, wholesome and nutritious, but in order to sell, it must also perform to consumer demands,” Summers comments. “When quality is non-negotiable, food-product developers need to fully consider the functional contributions of their fruit ingredients to their end-product quality.” Fruit growers and processors supply a wide variety of different products for just about any application.
“Customers today are very interested in health and
nutrition, and the perception of ‘fresh’ makes the appeal
of fresh fruit very high,” says Boyer. She adds that while fresh
fruits, especially berries, are popular ingredients in pies, tarts,
cakes and other sweets, savory dishes are increasingly using them in
applications such as salsas and sauces for protein-based dishes. “With
the savory dishes, we are seeing more of a reliance on berries for the
addition of color and flavor,” she says. Careful handling and storage of fresh and frozen fruits
helps to minimize shelf-life-shortening damage. Optimum storage of fresh
fruit is usually refrigeration at less than 45ºF. When stored under
these conditions, most fresh fruits last for about 1 week or less. Apples
are one of the exceptions: Some varieties will stay fresh for up to
3 months if stored in a cool, dry place. Store frozen fruit between
0º and -10ºF; keep frozen until ready to use to avoid cell damage resulting
from freeze-thaw cycles. While some processing may actually deteriorate fruits’ nutritive values, oftentimes, frozen versions are actually more nutrient-dense than their fresh counterparts. Payne states that because frozen fruits usually undergo the freezing process within a couple of hours of harvesting, they retain more nutrients than some fresh fruits, which degrade during storage, shipping and time spent sitting on store shelves.
In foodservice and retail shelves, fresh-squeezed juice
continues to rise in popularity, not only as a traditional breakfast
beverage, but also as an ingredient in flavored drinks, such as martinis,
Cosmopolitans, daiquiris and margaritas, and in nonalcoholic drinks,
such as smoothies and mocktails. In addition to fresh-squeezed oranges
and lemons, other citrus fruits, as well as berries and pome fruits,
provide a varied color and flavor profile to many of these applications. Food scientists use concentrates and purées made
from apples, peaches, plums, cherries, berries, grapes and other fruits
as sweeteners. These also serve as color enhancers and provide flavor
in baked goods, ice cream, sorbets, yogurts, sauces and glazes; syrups
for canned fruits; fillings for pies, cookies and cakes; and beverages.
“Depending on the specific function one is looking for,” says
Bill Haddad, vice president of technical services, American Fruit Processors,
Pacoima, CA, “concentrates do contribute significantly to color;
taste, such as sweetness; mouthfeel; tartness; and functionality of
finished products. Concentrates tend to provide a more-rounded flavor
to products and may reduce the amount of flavors that need to be added.”
Fructose, approximately 20% sweeter than sucrose, is abundant
in fruits, as are other sugars. For example, single-strength apple juice
contains approximately 5.9% fructose, 2.7% sucrose and 2.0% other sugars.
Many consider fruit juice as a natural alternative to processed sugar,
and some manufacturers use juice concentrates as sweeteners so as to
make a claim on the front panel. However, Summers cautions: “There
is no cost benefit to using juice concentrates over sugar. It actually
costs more. The benefit is for a sugarless claim or a fruit claim.” Fruit concentrates and purées also act as humectants,
antimicrobials and mold inhibitors, affording manufacturers natural
alternatives to artificial additives. The high sorbitol content (15%)
of dried-plum concentrates and purées (as well as dried plums
and other processed dried-plum products), for example, functions as
an effective humectant to help keep bakery goods soft and moist and
meats juicy. The dried-plum concentrate and purée’s malic-acid
content helps to inhibit microbial spoilage and retard mold growth.
“The result is longer shelf life with fewer ingredients and a much
cleaner label that consumers will understand,” says James Degan,
consultant, California Dried Plum Board, Sacramento, CA. According to the California Raisin Advisory Board, the
propionic-acid content (500 to 600 ppm) and low pH (2.0 to 3.5) helps
raisin concentrate (in addition to raisins and other processed-raisin
products) to prevent or slow the growth of bacteria and mold in products
such as breads. To incorporate concentrates into formulas, Haddad advises
calculating the sugar solids and, sometimes, the acid. For example,
a single-strength apple juice contains about 12º Brix (a measure of
percent soluble-solids), while a concentrate will have about 70º Brix. The concentrating process increases the amount of fruit
solids and decreases the water available for the growth of many spoilage
microorganisms. Juices, even if pasteurized, have a limited shelf life
of 2 to 4 weeks and must be refrigerated. Concentrates, however, can
be stored for short periods of time at ambient temperatures and be refrigerated
for several months without spoilage, making them effective when trying
“to avoid spoilage that is typically inherent with juices,”
says Haddad. Fruit concentrates provide natural sweetness, flavor, moisture and antimicrobial capabilities, as well as a longer shelf life than some other liquid products. Haddad cautions, however, that understanding the objective of the project and the application, and the properties of the concentrate, are keys to achieving the best results. Food scientists can determine the amount of fruit concentrate to use in a food product by calculating an equivalent level of concentrate to make a sugar substitution. They must consider the amounts and the sweetness levels of the natural sugars — fructose, glucose and sucrose — present in the concentrate when using it as a natural sweetener. These sugars have hydroscopic or hydrophilic properties, says Haddad. “One must carefully choose a concentrate not only for its flavor and color contributions, but also for the properties that will ultimately affect [the product]. It can mean the difference between a soft, chewy cookie and a crisp, dry cookie.”
For the most part, dehydrated and freeze-dried fruits
retain their natural flavors, colors and nutritional values upon rehydration.
Freeze-dried fruits also retain the particle size of the fresh fruit
before processing, a key quality in applications where piece identity
is important. Fruit powder also may extend shelf life of bakery products.
“We compared the shelf life of full-fat brownies, muffins and cookies
to products made with fruit powder in place of the fat,” Summers
says. “The items containing fruit powder had an approximately 30%
longer shelf life.” He attributes this to the ability of the fruit
powder to attract and bind water. Naturally occurring sorbitol and reducing
sugars function as humectants, and fruit acids reduce pH and inhibit
microbial growth in products with added moisture. Summers recommends a usage level of flake powder of 2%
to 5% in dry bakery mixes and in-plant doughs. “Processors are
using fruit powder to produce low-fat cookies, tender snack cakes, flat
bread with a rich brown color, coffee cake with enhanced flavor and
moisture retention, and pizza dough that stays moist and tender under
infrared lights,” he notes. “Other bakery applications include:
bagels, scones, muffin and brownie mixes, English muffins, and crumb-cake
topping.” Infusion replaces water in the fruit with sugar or juice solids. This results in a 5% to 22% moisture fruit piece that retains a soft, pliable texture, even under dry, shelf-stable conditions.
Incorporating dried fruits of the correct size helps to
achieve optimum products. For example, larger, heavier pieces of fruit
sink to the bottom of batters (that’s gravity at work), while smaller,
lighter pieces of fruit remain suspended throughout, leading to better
fruit dispersion and much more attractive products. A multitude of food applications contain dried-fruit ingredients.
These include hot and ready-to-eat cereals, and sweets, such as cookies,
cakes, pies, pastries and muffins. For example, manufacturers add freeze-dried
berries to ready-to-eat (RTE) cereals for color, texture and to attract
health-conscious customers. Abby Taylor, communications specialist, California Strawberry
Commission, Watsonville, CA, points out that freeze-dried strawberries
continue to grow in popularity as cereal manufacturers add them to new
products. “The new cereals containing berries have been recognized
as the most successful cereal-product introductions in the past five
years,” she says. “Low-moisture apples are used extensively in the
cereal, bakery and snack food industries,” says Summers. “The
cereal industry utilizes low-moisture apple products such as granules,
powders, flakes and dices in RTE, cooked or instant-type breakfast cereals.
The apples can also be colored and flavored with other fruit flavors
— strawberry, peach, blueberry, etc. — to increase their versatility
in cereal products.” Infused products also make valuable additions to cereal
and other products. “By infusing apple pieces — slices and
dices — with various humectants, such as sugar, color and flavoring,
juice solids, or high fructose syrup, researchers at Tree Top offer
the ability to customize shelf-stable, dehydrated fruit ingredients
that retain their soft texture under dry-packaged, intermediate-moisture
and/or freezer conditions,” says Summers. “To preserve ingredient-label
integrity, Tree Top can infuse its apple pieces with characterizing
fruit-juice solids. Also, low-cost, bland-flavored fruit pieces, such
as apple or pear, can be infused with characterizing fruit flavors and/or
flavor enhancers to simulate more expensive fruit pieces, such as blueberries
or strawberries.” Product designers not only incorporate dried-fruit products
in sweet applications, cereals and other breakfast foods, but also in
meat dishes, stuffing, sauces and glazes. Dried fruits act as natural
sweeteners in sweet and savory applications, and as fat replacers, thickeners,
humectants and bases for other flavor and color profiles. Dried fruits
such as apples and plums do not have intense characterizing flavors,
and so will not change the flavor of the overall application. Over the last decade or so, manufacturers responding to
consumer demands for more healthy foods have created reduced-calorie,
low-fat and fat-free food products. But consumers do not want to sacrifice
appealing taste and texture for reduced fat and calories, so manufacturers
are turning to certain dried fruits as key ingredients to create tasty,
more-healthful food products. Three of the more common dried fruits used as fat replacers
in baked goods are apples, plums and figs. The high fiber and pectin
contents of these three dried fruits act as thickeners and water binders,
while malic acid enhances flavor. “The addition of sugar in a fat-reduced
baked good results in a sweet flavor spike that is short-lived when
chewing,” says Degan. “Malic acid coats the mouth, just like
fat, to potentiate the flavors of these fat-reduced products to extend
flavor for a more satisfying eating experience.” Summers also mentions a customer that uses fruit powder to replace “40% of the butter blend and 18% of the eggs to make a reduced-fat, crisp, chocolate-chip cookie. Scones maintain their rich butter taste even after removing 50% of the butter and 22% of the eggs.”
The shelf stability and low cost of canned fruits and
fillings make these products ideal alternatives to fresh or frozen fruits
in certain applications. However, because the thermal heating process
of canning degrades fruit’s texture, making it soft and mushy,
adding sugar syrups to the product before heating helps minimize textural
loss in the fruit by strengthening its cell walls. Canned fruit — particularly peaches, pineapples,
Mandarin oranges, pears, cherries and blueberries — and canned
fruit fillings — such as cherries, figs, prunes, blueberries and
strawberries — function well in many recipes that call for fresh
or frozen. Of course, the most-popular use of canned fillings is
as toppings and fillings in bakery goods, such as Danishes and cakes.
Foodservice establishments can use canned fruit fillings as delicious
and eye-appealing toppings over cake, ice cream, French toast, waffles
or pancakes. The thickened syrup helps to suspend the fruit and coats
these food products without making them too moist. Processors also sell hot-fill (nonretorted) fillings for the bakery industry. Typically, they use a single fruit, but sometimes adding other fruits can provide a benefit. “The baking industry uses custom-made fillings — apple, raspberry, blueberry, etc. — which are formulated using evaporated apples for flavor, texture, piece identity and extending other higher-cost fruit,” notes Summers. “A baker may also develop his or her own formulation for a pastry filling. The apple fillings are deposited on pastries and strudels, or in soft cookies and fruit bars. Fried apple pies, popular in fast-food restaurants, can utilize evaporated apples.”
Manufacturers of processed foods containing fruits and
processed fruits often need to adhere to standards of identity, which
require specific levels of fruit in particular products. They cannot
add a couple of pieces of fruit to a batch and call it “raisin
bread” or “blueberry muffins,” explains Thomas Payne,
food industry consultant, Thomas J. Payne Market Development, San Mateo,
CA, which represents Washington Red Raspberry Commission, U.S. Highbush
Blueberry Council and California Raisin Marketing Board. Fruit standards in some processed foods are based on the
parts per weight of the fruit to parts per weight of some other ingredient,
or solids content. Fruit preserves, jellies and jams, fruit juices and
canned fruits fall under these regulations. Keep an open mind when formulating with fruit; you might surprise yourself with the flavor and color combinations created. Experiment by flavoring fruits with spices and herbs or combining two or more fruits together. Remember that fruits are not just for sweet bakery products or breakfast food; the tart or sweet flavors of fruits complement savory flavors as well. The results may be “fruitful” to say the least. Karen Banasiak is a freelance writer and food-industry consultant from Chicago. She has an M.A. in journalism from Michigan State University, East Lansing, and will receive an M.S. in food science from University of Illinois, Urbana, in the fall of 2003.
3400 Dundee Rd. Suite #100 |
Formulating with Fruit
Posted in
Articles,
Colors,
Fiber,
Flavor,
Frozen Foods,
Fruit,
Frozen / Refrigerated Foods,
Fruits / Vegetables,
Jams / Jellies,
Canning, Canned Foods, Preservation
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