The Salsa Saga

  "Salsa" translates literally as "sauce," and encompasses a wide variety of forms. When most Americans speak of "salsa," they are typically referring to a condiment made with tomatoes, onions and chiles.

  As consumer demand for salsa escalates, the literal translation becomes more applicable. Sauces abound. Some contain ingredients not typically associated with salsa: papaya, mango, plantains and corn.

  "In 1988, only 16% of U.S. households bought salsa," says Stewart Jeffery, president, Quetzal Foods International Corporation, New Orleans. "By 1992, that figure had jumped to 36%. Salsa now outsells ketchup."

Tomato tidbits

  The processing parameters used to manufacture tomato paste affect its enzymatic activity level. Depending on the process, either hot-break or cold-break paste is produced.

  During hot-break paste production, the tomatoes are heated at a higher temperature than during cold-break paste manufacture. The higher temperature causes more enzyme inactivation, resulting in a product with a thicker viscosity. Hot-break paste is usually the paste of choice. The paste is more economical to use when viscosity is desired in a product. If two salsas containing the same amount of solids are compared, one made with hot-break paste and the other with cold-break, the hot-break sample will be thicker.

  Cold-break paste is perceived as having a slightly better color and flavor. It is useful when a processor wants a lot of tomato solids without the thickness. In juice, for example, cold-break paste will give more tomato flavor and color without a lot of viscosity.

  Tomato paste is produced with different finishes, that is, different degrees of coarseness. The coarser the product, the greater the tendency for the paste to contain larger pieces of seeds and skin. A salsa without added tomato pieces might use a coarse paste. Products are identified by the screen size the paste is pumped through during processing. A 0.155" paste is a coarser product, while 0.040" is a finer paste.

  Tomato paste typically ranges from 24% to 31% tomato solids. Paste is available in No. 10 cans or pouches, 220-oz. pouches, 55-gal. drums and 300-gal. bins. These packaging options meet the needs of small regional processors and large national brand manufacturers.

  "Pouches are becoming more popular," says Tom Shea, marketing manager, Hunt-Wesson Inc., Fullerton, CA. "They are easier to open with less waste. Evacuation of the product is sometimes easier. A 3-gal. bag-in-box is being used for tomato puree and crushed tomatoes."

  Diced, peeled tomatoes are commonly sized at a 3/4-in. cut. Smaller dices are more expensive, because more juice is lost, causing a lower yield. Smaller diced tomatoes are usually processed with the skin on to improve the yield. Like paste, diced tomatoes have a range of pack sizes: No. 10 cans, 55-gal. drums and 300-gal. bins.

  During diced tomato processing, the tomato's cell structure partially collapses. Calcium chloride is used as a processing aid to maintain the structure of the dice. This firming agent reacts with soluble pectic substances in the tomato to form a calcium-pectate gel. Calcium pectates are water-insoluble, and help maintain structural rigidity, even during heat processing.

  "Some salsa processors like to use whole, peeled tomatoes," Shea explains. "They crush them to get unique particulate sizes in their products. The tomatoes are packed in No. 10 cans. Calcium chloride is used as a processing aid."

The veggie variable

  Bell peppers, onions and jalapeños commonly are added fresh. "The cleaning and cutting of raw fruits and vegetables is, to a great degree, outsourced by salsa manufacturers," Jeffery says. "Onions are typically received in 1/4-in. diced pieces. Other ingredients will be cut to suit the style of the salsa, like chunky." Fresh vegetables provide good sensory characteristics in the end product. On the negative side, salsa production must be timed to meet ingredient availability.

  Advantages to IQF vegetables are "the ease of handling and labor savings. The ingredients are ready to go," says Steve Feinberg, president, Mid-America Food Sales, Ltd., Northbrook, IL. "IQF vegetables are more expensive than fresh, but labor costs are reduced. The vegetable processor cleans, blanches and then quick-freezes the vegetables. The freshness and flavor remain intact."

  IQF onions and bell peppers are typically 3/8 in., diced. Green and yellow bell peppers provide a visual contrast to the tomatoes in salsa. Other IQF vegetables to consider using are corn, celery, carrots and sliced mushrooms.

  Dehydrofrozen vegetables are produced by "partially drying the pieces and then quick-freezing," explains Phil Schlein, director of marketing, Basic Vegetable Products, Suisun, CA. "By reducing the water, more solids are shipped when compared to IQF vegetables. When dehydrofrozen vegetables thaw, there is almost no cellular damage. Removing the moisture initially helps maintain cell integrity. This gives a truer vegetable texture, more like a fresh vegetable."

  Dried vegetables are convenient, provide a reliable source of supply and are economical to ship since the water is removed. Dehydrated vegetables commonly used in salsa are "onions, garlic powder, red and green bell peppers, green chiles and jalapeños," says Schlein. "Dehydrated onions can have a better flavor and firmer texture in the finished salsa than fresh onions. Market-grade onions are often low in solids, with little flavor. Dehydrated onions are processed from onions with a high solids content. This gives better piece integrity and stronger flavor in the finished product." Dried onions are typically 3/8-in. or 1/2 in., diced, for salsa products.

Chile choices

  The confusion continues when the word "pepper" is added. When Christopher Columbus reached the West Indies, he found islanders eating chiles. Columbus noted the spiciness of the chiles, and misidentified them as black pepper. This misnomer persists, and chiles still are referred to as peppers. Capsaicin is the ingredient in chiles responsible for their heat.

  Each salsa product has its own mouthfeel that is influenced by flavor, heat and texture. "When making salsa, it is essential to know which chile fits the desired effect," Jeffery explains. "Over 100 varietals are available commercially, although most chiles are grown in limited quantities. Chile influences change with each fruit or vegetable added to a salsa. To identify a chile that gives the desired recipe profile, extensive taste testing is required. It may be necessary to blend several different chiles to achieve the desired effect."

  Flavor. Chile flavors have many descriptors: nutty, plum raisin, sweet, cocoa-like, apricot. Processing methods influence chile flavor. Chiles are available fresh, dried, smoked and roasted.

  Fresh chiles are desirable for the flavor and texture they impart in salsa. Chiles are available cleaned and chopped, minced or pureed. Some salsa manufacturers may opt to process chiles in-house. "The serrano chile has a fairly uniform flavor across the spectrum of varietals," Jeffery says. "This is a very good chile for fresh table salsas."

  Salsa processors are finding that the habanero chile, well-known for its intense heat, has an intense flavor to match. "This versatile chile can be used at low levels to provide a predominant flavor with some heat," Jeffery says. "The chile enhances the flavor profile without overpowering the inherent taste of the salsa."

  "Pepper mash" is a raw material base for most hot sauces that some salsa manufacturers are investigating. "Mash is made by grinding fresh chiles through a 3/8-in. screen," Jeffery explains. "Typically, 12% to 15% salt is added. The salt 'fixes' the mash, and makes it resistant to molds and microbiologicals. Pepper mash can be processed with vinegar instead of salt. The mash is blended with 100- or 200-grain vinegar used at a 10% to 15% level."

  Dried chiles provide specific flavors and handling ease. "Some of the more exotic varieties are not as available," says Jeffery. "A dried ingredient can be kept in inventory for use when needed. The cascabel chile, for example, is grown in Latin America, but there are only limited quantities in the United States. This dried chile has a sweet, nutty flavor and can be very hot."

  The smoking process considerably alters the taste of chiles. Chiles are traditionally smoked in an underground chamber, using slow-burning fruit woods and hardwoods. These include hickory, apricot and pecan. Smoking dries the chile, and combines the inherent taste and heat of the chile with the flavoring associated with the intense smoke. "Smoked chiles should be experimented with in very small quantities until the desired influence is achieved," Jeffery says. "The smoked morita chile, for example, has an intense flavor that sets a predominant taste profile."

  Roasting brings out the inherent flavor of the chile. Flavor notes are richer and full-bodied. "The Anaheim chile is an example of a chile that has a better flavor after being roasted," Jeffery advises.

  Heat. Capsaicin is the active ingredient in chiles that causes the burning sensation. Chiles are evaluated by HPLC testing to quantify the amount of capsaicin. Heat levels are expressed in Scoville units. Scoville ratings range from "0" Scoville unit, indicating no heat, (pimento chile, paprika), to 300,000 Scoville units (habanero chile). Scoville units can be determined by either sensory methods or by HPLC methods. Sometimes these two methods do not provide the same figure, so it may be necessary to specify the technique used to ensure consistency.

  "Most hot chiles tend to localize the burn sensation in the mouth," says Jeffery. "The habanero chile, for the most part, disperses the heat evenly throughout the mouth. The heat dissipates quickly, and naturally transitions to the back of the throat. This allows a person to eat more of a salsa seasoned with this chile."

  Heat perception is generated by the form of chile used in a salsa. The bigger the chile pieces, the more localized the heat and flavor impact. A small dice or pureed chile is desirable to dissipate the heat evenly throughout the mouth. A salsa may require a combination of diced and pureed chiles. This would convey particle identity, heat and flavor impact with full dispersion of the sensory qualities throughout the salsa.

  Chiles, like other agricultural products, have specification variances from season to season. "There is a specification range associated with like chile varietals," says Jeffery. "This variation, in most cases, is not sufficient to take a recipe out of its specified profiles. It is important to locate a vendor that can routinely provide chiles that deliver the profile established by the formulation."

  Texture. Different chile formats provide various textural qualities to salsa. Diced chiles generally range from 1/8 to 1/2 in. A larger dice might be used in an extra-chunky salsa. "Texture also has to do with how the ingredients blend together and what viscosity results from blending," Jeffery states.

Spice it up

  Spices are available fresh, dried, pureed, as paste and as natural extractives. Fresh spices provide flavor, texture and visual appeal, but these attributes become lost in processed foods. Dry spices deliver different flavor perceptions in the finished product depending on their form: finely or coarsely ground, whole or cracked, or various-sized particulates. Extractives provide more consistent flavor development than dry spices.

  "Salsa seasoning blends are designed to give salsa manufacturers their own niche in the market," says Mark Boxshus, president, New England Spice Co., Norwell, MA. "A basic dry blend for salsa might be made of tomato, peppers, onion and garlic. Tomatoes can be pieces, flakes or powder. Bell peppers, chiles, and black, white or cayenne pepper are used. Onions might be chopped, sliced, granulated or powder. The mix can contain cilantro, cumin and other spices. The salsa processor specifies what the blend contains to make their product unique."

  Dry blends contribute to the viscosity of a salsa. As the ingredients rehydrate, the viscosity thickens. Pieces of dried peppers and onions will give particle identity in the finished salsa.

  "Dry blending simplifies manufacturing, inventory and overall quality control," explains Boxshus. "Dry blends have a 90- to 120-day shelf life in a cool, dry environment. The ingredients can be custom-blended by batch. This minimizes formulation mistakes on the line."

  Flavors are useful in the salsa mix. "The cooking process drives off flavors," explains Steve Wilbur, assistant vice president of marketing and customer services, David Michael & Co., Inc., Philadelphia. "The manufacturer decides where they need to add back some of the flavor lost during processing. The trend is to use natural flavors, which fit salsa's natural image. The acidity of salsa can potentiate a flavor. In general, the higher the acidity, the lower the usage level - up to a certain point." Flavors typically used include tomato, onion, garlic, bell pepper, cilantro and jalapeño.

The benefit of beans

  "Whole black beans work well in salsa," says Rebecca Krueger, Ph.D., technical services director, Brown's Best Foods, Lincoln, NE. "They provide texture, and have more flavor than some other beans. Their color is a good contrast with the tomato ingredients." A suggested usage level is 6% to 7%.

  Precooked and dried beans offer the convenience of directly adding the ingredient to the cook kettle. Quick-cooking, dehydrated whole black beans cook in 15 to 20 minutes. Other whole-bean ingredients include pintos, reds and navies. These beans provide less visual contrast in salsa when compared with the black bean.

The acid test

  Acidulants, or acids, are identified as either organic or inorganic. Inorganic acids are generally stronger and more corrosive than organic acids. Phosphoric acid is an inorganic acid used in the food industry. Some organic, or weak acids, are citric, acetic and lactic acids. Each has a distinctive acid delivery profile, which is an important consideration in their selection, as this can help enhance specific flavor profiles.

  Citric acid and acetic acid, in the form of vinegar, are used in salsa, according to Tom West, technical service manager, Jungbunzlauer, Inc., Newton Centre, MA. "Granulated citric acid is readily soluble in salsa formulations. Industrial liquid vinegar has a minimum of 100 grain, or 10% acetic acid. Vinegars with 20% and 30% acetic acid cut down on shipping costs."

  Vinegar is produced by the fermentation of alcohol by Acetobacter in the presence of oxygen. White distilled vinegar is produced from various white distilled alcohols such as grain, sugar beets or synthetic sources. Specialty vinegars begin with alcohol from raw materials with specific flavors and colors. Red- and white-wine vinegars are derived from wine; cider vinegar begins with a full apple-cider flavor. Balsamic is made from red-wine vinegar, later blended with grape sugar and aged to produce a deep color and mellow flavor.

  "Vinegar toners simplify inventory," Wilbur says. "Let's say a processor is using apple-cider, red-wine and balsamic vinegars. Toners are added to white distilled vinegar to achieve the desired vinegar. An apple-cider toner added to white vinegar results in a vinegar that tastes like apple-cider vinegar. Instead of warehousing all three vinegars, the processor just needs to purchase white distilled vinegar."

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  "Red-bean powder and pinto-bean powder will thicken a salsa and provide some flavor," Krueger says. "Five percent is a good starting level." The ingredient is labeled "bean powder," which can be appealing on an ingredient statement.

  Xanthan gum gives body to a salsa without becoming pasty. Its water-binding properties help prevent syneresis. The gum is acid-stable and does not mask the flavor of the salsa.

A little insurance

  "Sodium benzoate is very effective at a pH less than 4.5," explains West. "It is water-soluble and inexpensive. The initial bacteria level will affect the usage level." FDA lists sodium benzoate as GRAS (generally recognized as safe) but limits its use level to a maximum of 0.1% in foods not covered by a standard of identity. Potassium benzoate may be substituted, but because of its higher molecular weight, it is slightly less effective than the sodium salt on an equivalent weight basis.

The real thing

  The main ingredients in Mexican salsa are chiles, tomatillos and ricado, a spice blend. The dried, ground chiles are selected for flavor and heat. "A chipotle is hot with a smoky flavor," Joy states. "Guajillo is a medium-heat chile. Ancho is mild, with faint fruity notes."

  A tomatillo is a tart, green fruit with a papery husk, and provides texture and flavor to salsa. While tomatoes are not a primary Mexican salsa ingredient, there is some usage. They are seen more in salsas made in northern Mexico.

  "Every establishment in Mexico has its own ricado or spice blend," says Joy. "Different regions use different amounts of seasonings. Some of the seasonings are cinnamon, cocoa, cumin seed, oregano and basil. There is usually a roasting step in preparing a ricado. The seasonings may be ground first and then roasted, or roasted and then ground. Roasting gives a more rounded and balanced flavor with some brown notes." Green herbs, like cilantro and epazote, also are used. These ingredients are not roasted.

Sweet heat

  A sweet salsa refocuses the sensory characteristics that the product imparts to the mouth. "Reducing the amount of tomato lowers the acid level," Jeffery explains. "This can be replaced with sweetness using chunked and/or pureed fruit, like pineapple. The objective is to let the sweetness predominate. Sweetness can be varied, depending on the type of fruit and at what stage of ripeness the fruit is used. Some varieties are sweeter than others."

  Potential sweet salsa ingredients include mango, passion fruit, papaya, raspberries, lemon, lime, orange and chiles. Chiles are selected for their flavor and heat characteristics. Mango might be paired with a mild heat, smoky chile. Citrus fruits add tartness.

  Honey is a possible sweetener in salsa. Researchers at Kansas State University, Manhattan, KS, conducted a study in 1996, funded by the National Honey Board, to evaluate the organoleptic qualities of salsa prepared with 0%, 5% and 10% honey. As might be expected, honey flavor and sweetness increased with increasing honey usage. The ability of honey to smooth acidic products was evidenced. Sourness in salsa decreased with increasing honey level.

  Dry blends can be designed for fruit salsas. A blend might have a base of "corn syrup solids or dextrose," Boxshus suggests. "Other ingredients would be added to the base, like dry maple, dry honey, brown sugar or powdered flavors. Dehydrated apples or other fruits may be used."

  "Americans typically think of salsa as something for chips," notes Joy. "There are many other uses. Salsa can be used as a cooking sauce. Some fruit products would be excellent accompaniments for chicken and beef. An apple salsa goes well with pork, a pineapple salsa with ham."

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